The bungee can work very well, but you still need something to hold the ski up and that has friction or stickiness. You could skip the piece of wood and just mount your vise right to the sawhorse, but then you’ll drip more wax on the floor, and not have a place to set down your tools, wax and iron. I would really prefer not to further clutter up the place any worse for potential renters. Looked the other way, saw a small ammo can, a little shorter, but full of old tools and heavy. I also tune my wife’s skis and my buddy’s, and both have different size boots which causes a problem with the binding clamp method they suggest.

Going to start by building some clamps out of 2x4s, maybe just sack up and buy proper ones at some point.

If you now flip the form over and rest a ski on top of it, your binding should fit nicely into the slot in the middle with you tip and tail resting rather awkwardly on the supports. If that doesn’t work, unscrew the supports from the base and put some small wood shims between them and the base to create more height and screw everything back together.

Take the old bike tire tube and carefully make two cuts right through it on both sides of the air valve to remove it.

Stretching the rubber slightly, staple or tack it over the support so that it’s nice and smooth.

In the photo on the left you see the silver bolt running through two small pieces of wood to act as the “vise” which screws tight to the form (as can be seen on the right). In the photos below you can see their version of an enhancement to allow the skis to be secured to the form during waxing.

Drill two holes in the corners of the slot so you can turn the blade of the saw to cut out the bottom of the slot.

Ski bench wax

budget tuning bench [archive]

Once you drill the holes into the bottom piece of wood, use these as a guide to drill the holes into the top piece of wood, with the slot.

I put larger loops into each end of the bungie cord and used stainless steel safety wire to fix the loop. I plan on possibly mounting a piece of wood in the ski’s binding to hold the ski in a more secure manner.

I thought it would be better, because it won’t scratch the skis and will prevent the skis from sliding.

Cut this new rubber strip at 8 inches long, and glue it down to the top of the vice instead of carpeting.

The bench only needs to be wide (ie left to right) enough to support the two end vices in the correct position although the benefit of having worktop under the full length of the ski means that most of the filings/wax scrapings will fall on the bench rather than the floor, making them easier to clean up. If you plan on doing a lot of tuning, especially with high fluorocarbon race waxes, it’s worth fitting an extract fan as breathing wax fumes & dust can’t be that good for you – & you won’t want the garage or shed door open for ventilation in the winter.

It’s an ideal place to leave the freshly waxed skis to cool before scraping – skis propped up against the wall have a tendancy of falling over!

You also need something to hold it still, which can also be the something that holds it in the middle. Any kind of bench/bookcase turned sideways/whatever, with blocks and/or a vice of some kind. I have a buddy that uses saw horses and a narrow sheet of plywood with a vice bolted to it. Use the mechanism on the work mate to clamp the 2 x 4, attach a cheap ski vice to each end and its not bad set up (for someone who has no space at least). All the supports are on brackets so they fold up and whole thing tucks neatly away in my tiny little garage.

I contemplated leaving the bark on but the beetles got a start on it and the vises didn’t fit well over it so off it came.

Installed a slop sink and some extra outlets (for the shop vac under the bench, less cord stretch for tools across the bench). The 2×4 will serve as the bench base, clamped to your work bench or kitchen table with 2 shorter lengths serving as tip and tail supports for the ski. Unless you ski is super long or has some major camber, you should be able to make this work without the binding hitting on the base.

Try to be as accurate as possible: the better job you do the nicer your ski will rest on the form. Stick a small length of wood or cardboard into one of the open ends of the tube to protect one side of the rubber while you begin cutting the tube open lengthwise.

It is adjustable, which gives him the ability to wax his girlfriend’s skis on the same form. In the third photo below and right, you see that the bolt of the tailpiece fits into the hollowed out section of the form base and is secured with a knob. That’s not even the cost of a pizza and your slick new wax bench will still be super inexpensive.

Take another piece of 6″ cut wood and mark the location of two holes, one in each corner of the wood. Cut some of your carpet into 1 1/2″ strips and lay the carpet into the slot and wrap the carpet to fit the top of the wood. I then can easily loop each end of the bungie cord into the spring link clips after running the bungie cord through the ski bindings.

Joe originally did, and one at roughly a 60 degree angle so you have the option of how the ski mounts.

Simply insert the legs into the holes you drilled into the end pieces and it’s ready to go and you can take it anywhere and not have to find a table or bench to clamp to. If you do a lot of tuning it’s handy to have two benches so you can be doing both edge work & base work at the same time.

This is were the angle poise lamps work well as you can alter their position to give the best illumination for the particular process you’re doing. It’s best to put your ski or board rack on the wall above the bench to make it easier/faster/safer to swap them over.