When it comes to larger jobs, such as making a glue-up for a tabletop or a raised panel cabinet door , you're probably going to need a longer clamp. Traditionally, this would be the domain of the large bar clamp, a flat, steel rod with a secured jaw on one end and an adjustable jaw on the opposite end.
One hang-up with large bar clamps is the expense. A single large bar clamp of at least 48 inches in coverage can cost as much as a couple hundred dollars a piece. That's a bigger outlay than most woodworkers can afford, especially when you consider that you likely would want to have a few on hand for large jobs. For our money, 3/4-inch pipe clamps are a viable option for expensive bar clamps.
There are a few companies that manufacture pipe clamp kits that fit onto a 3/4-inch diameter threaded pipe that essentially perform the same task as a bar clamp. The advantage of such a system is that you can determine the length of the clamp by the length of the pipe you choose to use with the kit. Either will work fine, but the black pipe is less expensive, and since we're talking about working within a budget, would probably be the choice of most woodworkers. That being said, the black pipe can leave stains on the surface of your boards, so you'll want to take some precautions (see below) to make sure that you don't make more work for yourself when it comes to the sanding and finishing steps of your project, particularly if you intend to stain your project or simply top-coat the bare wood with polyurethane or a similar protectant. The biggest thing to keep in mind is that pipe does bend when put under pressure, particularly over long runs of over 4-feet in length. Too much tension on a series of glued boards that have been jointed on edge (thus squeezing out the glue from the joint) can be just as bad as not enough pressure (which would prevent the joint from closing tightly).
To solve these problems, you'll want to use many clamps on an assembly and apply them to both sides of the assembly. By alternating clamps on each side of the board, you should be able to spread out the pressure and keep the boards from bowing one way or the other as you tighten the clamps. Use just enough pressure to tighten the joint, and try to tighten all of the clamps evenly as you go. First of all, you can simply leave space between the pipe and the boards in the glue-up. While this space keeps the pipe and boards from contacting one another, it can lead to bigger problems with bowing. A second idea is to place a scrap piece of wood between the boards and the pipes. This idea works well as long as the scrap is of a similar species to the boards being clamped, but it can be problematic if you squeeze glue out of the joints and the scrap board becomes glued to the assembly. As users the really valuable ones are old cast, and they aren't that great a clamp compared to modern day clamps.
I had a huge pile of them way back in the 60's. Consider keeping them if you think the scale of work you'll want to do will require some actual compressive strength. The cabinet shop they were used in broke a bunch of the knobs off. Pack of 6 premium quality wood clamp trouser hangers with a smooth, natural finish. Provides organization with an elegant touch to your wardrobe decor. Superior, solid and sturdy wooden non-slip ridged trouser bar that prevents slacks from slipping. Strong polished chrome swivel hook with a smooth rounded end. Holds pants or skirts securely by the waistband or from the hemline. Also great for kids tops, smaller items, etc. For a tidy, organized and great looking closet!!
The durable clamp mechanism will provide years of hassle free use, simply load garment and snap shut, garments are held firmly in place. Metal clamp hinge is secured by a central plastic lock. Some of my skirts are fairly heavy and these just don't hold them as well as my metal hangers. The clips don't seem like they're metal, they are very cheap. They might be plastic or an extremely thin metal. The metal hangers were more expensive but they're much better quality.
I didn't give it 5 stars because the wood is warped, some more than the others, leaving a gap, so it would've been a good idea to add a strip of rubber for better grip. Especially things that have sentimental value. For me it was this 12′ wooden ladder that my dad had loaned us when we bought our first home. It had to be outside for various reasons and it rotted away.
I dragged it up to he front of my house and used my jig saw to cut it into salvageable pieces late last summer. The promise to myself was to make use of this bit by bit and create some new memories. The other long one became our dining room lighting, and a smaller pair became sconces in that same area. Do you know how hard it is to find truly weathered dowel?
Because this wood is first-growth wood with grain tighter than me and my wallet, it took some doing to get those holes made. Hang a hat or some towels and call it a day. Our house can be made a home with simple things to give it a story. Don’t forget to stop by my shop to see the latest additions, including my ticking pillows seen above!
I was so afraid you were going to list it in your shop. Not that it isn’t great to share with others. The parts of the chair have such nice memories for you and you created a unique piece of furniture.
I look forward to seeing it in your future vignettes.
You and me both can’t wait to have my home done. Your dad would be so proud of what you did and how you re-created the ladder.
Using Pipe Clamps for Woodworking
That chair, besides being a family heirloom, is just the cutest darn thing to use to fill a little space with!.
I create along with the antique and vintage finds sold in my shop. My purpose is to share, so let’s have fun and be considerate of my work. There are many types of clamps available for many different purposes. Some are temporary, as used to position components while fixing them together, others are intended to be permanent. Although these are typically used for machining applications, this clamp serves as a theatrical wagon brake. Grab the clamp like a handle and twist it to loosen the pipe. The clamps create handles, allowing you to get a better grip and more leverage. Hold them snugly in place with clamps to build a custom furniture piece—no power tools needed. Doing this will help direct all of the plunger's power down the drainpipe and directly to the clog. This way, you won't have to screw a hook directly into your structure, and the parts will be easy to remove when the weather cools.
One of them appears to be a bit chipped on the tip. Quick-twisting operation to open or close to approximate width desired. They are 10" long with a 6" opening capacity. Missing one handle and one handle does have a nail holding it on. Only markings are on the top of each one as shown. Since it is used, do not expect it to work as good as a new item.
What you see in pictures is what you get. Blacksmith leg-pole vice with 4" jaws, weighs about 40 lbs. Brooks) leg-pole vice with removeable leg, 6" serrated jaws, weighs 75 lbs. One aluminum 6" diameter sanding face plate with 1/2 inch threaded hole in center. Steel 6 inch lathe face plate with 1 inch threaded hole in center. Feed travel screw off an old steel lathe, over 1 inch in diameter. Number the rungs in an ascending pattern. Mark left and right as you face the front of the chair. Firmly strike seat downward, near each joint, with a deadblow hammer. Repair the chisel damage later with matching wood filler. Strike the seat firmly with a dead-blow hammer. Work around the chair, slowly loosening each joint. The only fix is to completely disassemble the legs and reglue them.
Left and right are determined as you face the front of the chair. A rubber mallet bounces too much and a wooden mallet mars the surface. Always start hammering lightly and increase the force as needed. You’ll clearly see, and feel, the joint move when the glue bond breaks. Many chair legs have screws holding them to the seat. Not all are obvious; look for small screw or nail holes filled to match the chair finish. You’re likely to chip a rung when you miss a well-hidden nail or screw. If you miss a nail, you’ll probably split a rung when you knock the chair apart. The damage is more cosmetic than structural. Pull the nail with a locking pliers and then finish disassembling the chair. Save all wood chips for regluing and clamping later, at reassembly. Draw joints tight and wipe off glue drips with a damp cloth. Align the back, positioning it with padded bar clamps. Once in a while the seat may split or crack apart. But this only adds an extra glue and clamp step (plus 24 hours) before reassembly. Your new glue won’t bond with the old glue. The key to reassembly is to work quickly, because the glue begins to dry in a few minutes. Lay out seat and leg parts in a clear order according to your labels. When you’re finished, your chair should sit as solid as new.
Shop Clamps at Lowes
Then fill the mortise about halfway with epoxy. Set chair leg (tenon) into mortise, align and clamp. Some joints are just too damaged to allow for a tight glue joint, especially when repairing areas that have broken several times. One way to save the chair is to use 24-hour epoxy as both a filler and a bonding agent. Keep the joint upside down so the epoxy doesn’t run out. Scrape off excess epoxy while it’s still soft. Apply carpenter’s glue to split pieces using a small brush. Remove excess glue, first with a damp cloth and then with a sharp chisel 20 minutes later. Split rungs can be repaired without disassembling the chair. Wedge open each split and apply ample glue to each split piece. Get glue as far down the split as possible without actually splitting the rung further. Securely clamp the repair with padded clamps. Tighten until the glue oozes out and the split edges realign and pull tight. But don’t crank down too hard and squeeze all the glue out of the joint. Clean up excess glue with a damp cloth but don’t get moisture into joint. Wait about 20 minutes until the excess glue looks like soft licorice, then lift it off by gently scraping with a chisel or utility knife. For a completely invisible fix, you’ll have to sand the area with fine sandpaper, color-match the stain and revarnish. But they're not all built the same, nor do they all work as good as they look. Expect several months of hunting to assemble even a modest set this way. Its the handles that wear out after 40 years. Availability varies with most coming as singles or pairs. These are user's tools, which is a testament to their utility. These are big, heavy, industrial tools that are best suited for semi-permanent intallations involving a lot of weight or force. They are built to hold stuff down, rather than to clamp things up.
You don't grab three of these in each hand and move to the bench, like you would with the others. There are complaints (other than their enormous weight).
The cam's teeth sometimes catch when opening the clamp. Its not uncommon to see bent bars on these big clamps (like mine); you kind of feel compelled to tighten them with a hammer. The extra weight does not translate into better function.
You could probably drill two or three 1/2" holes through the head to reduce the weight without affecting their strength. On the positive side, these things are super tough and will never wear out in the course of a career. They are built for heavy clamping applications - metalworking, timberframe construction, or boatbuilding. The handles have slightly squarish turnings. Common to most are a squarish pad and small wing-stands cast into the upper jaws. The profile of the maleable iron castings are fairly classic as well. While they fall a bit short in the style department - they are thoroughly modern with their red rubber grips and shiny, corrugated bars - these things flat out work. They are widely available for a reasonable price. If you can't find or afford vintage tools, fill your rack with these. In 50 years, they'll look like classics, too.
You actually can have too many clamps - if they're crappy ones.
I have at least a dozen of these and use them daily.
I hate the color, they're poorly balanced (but pretty light weight), and lose their plastic pads almost immediately. Ponys will ever be at risk of being given away to that young niece or nephew who takes an interest in woodworking. These devices were utilized by mounting to a bench, and operated by a foot pedal. Spread the clamp, insert two pieces of leather, and stitch away with free hands, and a tight hold. The clamp is in very good condition for age, and likely originates from the late 1800's to the early 1900's. The clamp measures 26" tall, 10 1/2" wide, and 3 1/4" thick. Did you scroll all this way to get facts about antique wood clamp ?
The most common antique wood clamp material is wood.