It would also be appropriate to paint, stain or protect the lumber however you see fit for whatever you are using if for.
As long as the mortise in the back e piece matches the through tenon in the seat, that’s what matters. For each additional inch you want to raise the seat you will have to raise the slot another inch (or so) and increase the length of the slotted portion by 3 inches. The best way we found to determine this was by setting up two of the longer boards from the back at the angle we thought we would like and then setting the angle on the bevel gauge. This notch begins 11″ from the bottom and needs to be cut large enough so that the 40″ board that was cut earlier will slide through with ease. Drill pocket holes before inserting the galvanized screws, to prevent the wood from splitting.
I also used it upside down from the above photo with the narrower side on your back and the wider piece on the floor. It’s a pretty rustic place, and there are always too few seats down by the water during the day and by the campfire in the evening. Reply2016-07-07made one but the height for our seat is much higher, therefore easier to sit in. One other thing that may be unique to ours is the crown that is carved into the head of the back panel and the burnt, weathered and battle-worn look. We’ve been using the chairs for about 2 months now and we haven’t experienced any splitting at the seams yet. Depending how detailed you want to get with any carvings or distressing techniques, this project should only take about a few hours to maybe a day’s time.