These buildings are also much cheaper to build than conventional ones. What size tenons are you cutting at most?
It seemed to be a good size for the furniture type projects she did. It cuts a very nice flat end tenon from 3/4" to 6" in diameter, and up to 6" long without moving the cutting head.
I haven't used it much yet; just bought a small lot and am starting to build.
I did make a lounge swing that adjusts alll the way down to a bed.
I tried to upload pictures, but my 26kbs internet connection shut me off.
I need a picture of what you are describing. My thought was to bring a tape measure to a lowes or homedepot to get the critical measurements for a picnic table. Most of the joints would be lap type, should be an easy build. Lovely work and lots of good starter projects in the book with various techniques. Some chairs a bit too artsy to be sat in, too!
So cool and the perfect height for me, still tempted to go buy it.
I thought this was an interesting twist on a log bench. Not so much typical round wood furniture construction though.
I used an old butcher knife as a draw knife to peel the logs ( again not recommended, my wife was not impressed with my abuse of our household cutlery).
I sold those items and used the money to upgrade.
I had a cordless drill in my pack but the rest of the tools were simple hand tools.
I want to focus on simple quality hand tools. This guy says that he is the inventor of the tenon cutter.
I kinda wish there was a bit more exploration of working with greenwood and with conifer wood. But without that this is still a beautiful thing.
I watch it and think that my whole life is silly and should do what this guy does: go for a walk in the woods. He talks about harvesting the wood in late spring so you can easily peel off the bark - thus leaving behind a rather perfect stick.
I get the impression that this guy might go out into the woods in late spring and bring back a few sticks each day over a few weeks - peeling them while he strolls home. And then sets the peeled sticks in a cozy place. and a few weeks later they are dry and ready to be made into furniture. The resulting chair is incredibly lightweight, strong and. They are using conifer wood - so the sticks need to be bigger.
You get the impression that this is what these guys have been doing for ten years, cranking out log furniture. They have a mountain of sticks piled up out back and for each piece they go grab some sticks. So, they must go out into the woods once in a while to add to stick mountain. The whole video is about a half hour long. Less than half of that is about building this chair. They do a good job of cutting the tenons, drilling the holes, knocking it all together. They even have a quick technique for making the seat.
My favorite part is where they hide some dowels and they say that this is to make this into a generational piece. There was one point where they had about an inch and a half of dowel sticking out.
You would think that they would clip off the dowel and sand down the rest. But apparently sandpaper is free - so they just sand the whole thing down in about three seconds. It seems like half the glue ended up being wiped up. Overall, they make building a chair from conifer wood look easy and at the end of the video they showcase a bunch of other stuff they have built.
You end up thinking this is pretty easy stuff. The upside is that he knew how to toenail with nails - so stuff would stay together. He used a lot less glue than the others - and heaps of nails.
I would be very curious about expanding on a technique that used zero glue, but lots of these nearly invisible nails. At one point, he used plywood and spraypaint - which was a double ick for me. In fact, on one of his pieces, you kinda get the impression that it was the first time he ever made anything like that. Then he tries twice more and you can see that he is definitely getting better at it.
I very much like what he did to make the corded seat. A lot of large positives and a lot of large negatives. His woodworking skills are mesmorizing and he creates everything he needs for his homestead from the land. Once these smaller branches/stems dry out they can often be very brittle. From some slower-growing species, a branch may have a reasonable amount of heartwood as against more juvenile wood or sapwood. Perhaps someone with experience of making roundwood furniture could pass on their experience in picking branches/small stems that will provide sufficient structural strength for tables and chairs.
Upper branches that turn brittle are said to be brash, it has been a problem for centuries in using this wood. Some log furniture pieces are available for more than a thousand dollars. This high price is due to the size of the logs that are used, how old the wood is, and the type of wood used in the furniture’s construction. However, you can make log furniture of any type with the most popular type of do-it-yourself log furniture being simple chairs, mantles, and shelves. However, the finish will be flawless when it is sanded. It is necessary to include this step even if you cultivated the wood yourself. Of course, the finishing process is inherently difficult when natural wood is used in this form. Logs contain dents, dings, knots, and burrs that sanding can take care of. Even if you have purposely carved the logs to be rough, you will still have a surface that is relatively smooth after sanding when you are ready to finish. 2. Using an oil-free liquid detergent, the logs should be rubbed with a towel that is free from lint and soaked in soapy water. Before attempting to sand the log, allow several hours for the conditioner to soak into the wood.
Here are some beautiful examples. 3. Stay away from automatic or electric tools if you are aiming for a homemade or rustic look. In fact, you gain a higher level of control when you use hand tools. Logs can be partially or completely peeled using these tools and the connection points can be fashioned to the exact size required. 4. On logs, the tool creates ends that are rounded. These ends are used to make connections with the holes bored into other parts of the log furniture.
Because today’s modern adhesives were not in existence, they created strong bonds using a mixture with sap as a primary ingredient. When you are assembling log furniture, the type of glue you use is very important. On porous glue, white glue and wood glue works well. However, stronger glue is required for other wood types. Some pieces you find can be bought for upwards of a thousand dollars or much, much more. The price associated with log furniture is attributed to several factors, including the kind of wood it is, the age of the wood and the size of the logs used.
You can make any kind of log furniture with the most popular among them being shelves, mantles and simple chairs. If you are looking to make your own log furniture, here are 5 tips that could save you hours of time and unnecessary mistakes. If you bought the logs or cultivated them yourself, you still have to sand the wood. Using natural wood in this form comes with some inherent difficulties to the finishing process. Natural logs may contain burrs, knots, dings and dents that you may not see, but sanding will take care of them. This gives you a relatively smooth surface (even if the logs are carved to be rough on purpose) in which to finish. Rub the logs with a lint-free towel soaked in soapy water (use oil-free liquid detergent).
Allow the conditioner to soak into the wood for several hours before attempting to sand it again. If you want to create a real rustic and homemade look, avoid using electric or automatic tools. Hand tools will provide you with maximum control of your finished logs.
You will be able to create logs that are completely peeled or partially, as well as be able to make the connecting points to the exact size that you need. This tool is used to create rounded ends on your logs. These ends are what connect into the bored holes on other pieces of your log furniture. The best part about tenon cutters is that they can either be hand tools or attached to electric drills. They did not have the modern adhesives that we do today, and had to rely on using saps mixed with other items to create a strong bond. The type of glue that you use matters a lot when assembling log furniture. Wood glue and white glue will work on porous wood, but for other wood types, stronger glue is needed. So making your own super cool and extremely beautiful log furniture seems to be perfect for an off grid cabin or home. Some of the most expensive homes in the world use this type of furniture, but theirs is not as special as yours could be. They don’t make it themselves, they hire some famous maker to do it for them. The rustic look of logs in furniture is just awesome!
You can finish it the way you like if you are the one who is doing it. It is also a very cheap way to build furniture, especially if you have the right kind of wood on your property. Which of course adds another level of cool to the project if the wood came from your land you built it and now it is right there in your house.
I mention the furniture is truly beautiful?
Building furniture is a fun family project.
But in the end, you'll have a piece of furniture built with natural materials, including love. Read on to learn how to build log furniture. While you can make almost any furniture out of wooden logs, pieces vary in difficulty. Tables are easier while beds and benches require more skill and more materials. Measure the area where your new log furniture will go. Cut your logs with the table saw, using your measurements. The charm of log furniture lies in the imperfections, so don't worry about knots in the wood or slivers of bark remaining on the logs. If you're making a chair, work on the seat and then the back.
You may have to cut the logs with the table saw. Allow the furniture to dry thoroughly before using it. The varnish will make the wood softer to the touch and will protect it from water damage. In the past we have answered many questions on this topic via e-mail, the response has been overwhelming and the time has come to make this information available to enthusiests. Today we like the way log furniture allows us to feel at one with nature. There is no right or wrong way to build log furniture, as some people prefer the look as rustic as possible while others prefer a sleeker more finished look. This being said it is important that your furniture stay tight over time. The wood is hand peeled and sanded, the machining gives a medium uniformity on the tennons while allowing precise fit. More rustic furniture can be built with simpler tools. For example, using a hatchet to form the tennons can produce an excellent effect. A drawknife can be used to peel the wood and the marks left behind exemplify log homes and furniture from days gone by. The one major difference between sanding and using a drawknife is that the drawknife can cut away many of the neat features that nature has put in the wood. There are ways to get even more rustic, by leaving the inner layer of bark on or by leaving some of the limbs intact, both present special challanges. If you are lucky enough to find one or two posts for your log bed with a distinctive limb sticking out just right, then you’ve got an excellent place to hang your cowboy hat or tie. If you are the type who likes your log furniture less rustic, there are companies who build machined furniture. Building your own furniture of this style may be out of reach. The tools used to create these pieces are not available at the local hardware store. The advantage to this type of furniture is that the people making it can produce it at lower cost and the consumer is still getting a quality piece of furniture made of real wood.
This is something that is becoming more rare all the time, which a trip to most any furniture store will confirm. So whether you live in a log home or not and you want a special attachment with nature, building your own log furniture can offer a real sense of pride and achievement which is hard to find anywhere else. The drawknife is the tool of choice for removing bark and it leaves behind a distinctive mark. Using long strokes is preferable but if you have a piece of wood with lots of knots this can be quite taxing on the arms. If you choose to use green wood and let it dry before you build, then the bark can sometimes be simply peeled off while still green. This is called “sap peeling” and generally works better in the springtime. The cracks that appear in dry wood are natural and not really a problem if you position them corectly when building. Kiln drying produces far less cracking than air drying but may be restrictive in price and availability. When using standing dead the main problem encountered is the fact that you don’t know how long the tree has been dead, therefore you may encounter rot. This is really discouraging if you don’t discover it until after the holes are drilled and you are sanding, thus putting time and effert into firewood. Sawmills are another source of wood but i’ve had the same problem with rot when getting wood from them. Firekilled is a good alternative to all of the above for several reasons.
First of all, you are not killing a live tree to make your favorite piece of furniture. Secondly when the fire goes through the forest it will generally burn the rotten trees to the ground but healthy trees will remain standing and dry nicely. The bark will eventually loosen and most will fall off, the remaining bark can be removed with tools like putty knives. Another advantage is that with the branches burnt off it is much easier to select the pieces that you like and there are are many more trees in a close area to select from. Whichever method you decide on will be greatly influenced by your geography, you may not have access to firekilled or you may not be allowed to cut green trees by law. Species selection will also be influenced by geography and it would be difficult to cover them all here.
We are fortunate here in my area, in that the pine grows tall and straight with little taper and there are just enough disformed trees to get those special pieces. However you get your logs, the best part of building your furniture will most likely be in the logging process. It’s great to get out of doors and hunt for that special piece of wood. A drawknife can be used to peel the logs and make the tenons. This does require some effert however and there are easier ways. There is also one drawback to using a drawknife and that is “planer glaze”. This is less of a problem on inside furniture but is not good for outside where stain will be used, as the stain is’nt able to properly penetrate the wood. The biggest challange is the mortise and tenon joint, this is the joint that makes log furniture so appealing. There are other joints that can be done such as dovetails but we will discuss the round mortise and tenon. This is where you drill a pilot hole in either end of the work piece and rotate it over a saw blade. Another popular method is with a chucking machine, this is like a pencil sharpener and the work piece is pushed into it. This system is very restrictive when you are dealing with very crooked pieces and really only works on uniform logs. One main advantage to the chucking machine is production. This method is far faster than standing over a table saw turning the piece by hand.
It is also possible to get different cutting heads for your chucking machine but these tend to be rather expensive. So back to the centerline method, when drilling the pilot hole it is imparative that you drill in a line aimed at the other end of the workpiece. This can be accomplished with a jig and some ingenuity or there are systems on the market. The system that we use was built by ourselves and has no restrictions on the length of piece to be used. The same is true for the saw which we use, we have made 14 foot rails and have done 6 inch diameter logs. The saw utilizes a 10 inch round blade with a chain saw chain for cutting teeth, these can be obtained for weed wackers and are used for thinning trees. Our saw blade turns at 1375 rpm, attached above the saw blade is an adjustable pin on which to rotate the log ( pin size 5/8″ ).
After mastering the tenon the next step is to drill the mortises. A radial drill press will allow you to drill holes on an angle, this is desirable when building beds and stair rails. The drill press that you use must be secure and a 3/4 hp motor works fine ( any more power and you’re liable to get hurt ).
You should be able to accomplish most tasks with just two bits, a 2″ for spindles and a 2 1/4″ for the rails. The most common size for deck rail is 6″ posts, 4″ rail and 3 1/2″ spindles, rails have 2 1/4″ tenons and spindles 2″. When building deck rail the most important thing to keep in mind is the deck that you will be attaching to, if the deck won’t support the rail it won’t matter how well the rail is made it will not be stable.
The deck should have a minimum of two joists all the way around and be built secure. Take care when collecting your measurements as there is very little room for adjustment, if your measurements are precise then the rail has a better chance of being tight. The easiest method of securing the posts to the deck is to notch the post so that half of the log sets against the joist and the half that was notched out sits on top of the deck. By doing this the center of the rail will be right at the edge of the deck. The one thing to look out for here is that the deck floor matterial does’nt overhang the joist, if it does then it must be trimmed back or notched out. The post is secured to the deck by two 1/2″ bolts, lag bolts can be used but are not recommended. It is better to have a nut and bolt in case the rail loosens up over time, it can be easily tightened whereas with a lag bolt it is too easy to strip out and then you have a problem. Spacing is the most difficult part to master, when using a 3 1/2″ spindle and you want a 4″ spacing you want to drill the holes at 7 1/2″ apart. Sounds easy, but it seldom works out, so the first thing you do is take the measurement between the posts and subtract the first spacing on either side. Spacing is the first thing that most people will notice if you do it wrong, the good thing is that it is very hard to tell the difference between and a 7 1/4″ spacing a 7 5/8″ spacing while looking right at the two side by side. Beds are actually quite simple to build compared to some deck rails.
You want to start by selecting the pieces, match up two 48″ posts and two 36″ posts, the head and footboard and select four rails. The beds that we build are not just bed frames but actual beds, the box spring sits on the top rail which has been notched out to accept it. Start by building the headboard posts, set them side by side and turn them so that the crack is facing away to the back of the bed also keep in mind any feature that the post may have and position it in a suitable manner.
You don’t want the crack in line with the headboard or the lower rails ( you don’t want to drill through a crack as it will make a weak joint). The block should be marked off into quarters to find the center of each side, then cut a thin groove on all 4 sides of the block in about an inch. Now attach the post in the center of the block with the headbord side up and with a chalk line mark the center of the post from end to end. With a 2 1/4″ wood boring bit drill holes at 9″ and 44″, 2 1/2″ to 3″ deep. Next turn the post so that the rail side is up and drill holes at 5″ and 13″, repeat for other post. The footboard is done the same way except that the footboard holes are at 9″ and 32″. This will give you 60 1/2″ for a 60″ box spring. Five spindles look good on a queen size bed. If you are putting the spindles in on an angle use 9″ spacing from center on the to rail and 7″ spacing on the bottom, this will give the proper fan pattern. Once you have the top and bottom headbord rails done put them together with the posts and measure for the spindles. The hardest part of building this bed comes in notching the top rail for the boxsping to sit in. It can be done on a table saw, with a circular saw or with a chain saw.