For the antique furniture restorer, collector and dealer a new arrow in the quiver of adhesives has joined the struggle against loose veneer and chipped corners. They are revolutionary in that they are the only instant bonding glue at room temperature that has only one component.
The fastest drying variety will bond in seconds under very light pressure without an external energy source. As with almost everything else, we demand lots of choices – at the grocery store, at the drug store, etc. It comes in four basic flavors, although most distributors only carry two or three. The use of the accelerator can reduce bonding time from 10 seconds to 1 second – or seemingly truly instant.
In these cases the two thinner varieties of glue are desired. Lift up the loose veneer and prop it up with a toothpick or small piece of wood. Insert the pointed end of the glue applicator under the veneer and squeeze out the amount needed to cover the surface when the veneer is lowered. Spread the glue around evenly with the toothpick and quickly remove it. Using a paint paddle with waxed paper wrapped around it apply light pressure to the entire area but leave yourself access to the very edge. The accelerator will penetrate the glue and the veneer and create a uniform bond.
Tommy'S Tips What Glue Should I Use?
Thomas Johnson Antique Furniture Restoration
Tom Johnson of Thomas Johnson Antique Furniture Restoration in Gorham, Maine offers a primer in choosing the right adhesive.
As the bond forms you may hear it crackle slightly and any squeeze out or excess glue will turn white and crystalline. When that happens your glue is dry and you can move on. In this manner you can repair an entire table top of loose veneer in minutes instead of hours or days. Other applications such as repairing carving use a similar technique of glue, press and pump. A loose chair rung for example can be tightened by applying the glue around the joint, allowing it to “wick” into the joint for few seconds then pump some accelerator around the area. However, emphasis must be placed on the temporary nature of this type of repair since old glue has not been removed from the joint and may interfere with the bond of wood to wood. One of these is the problem of excess cured material along a veneer edge, for example. If this excess has crystallized, it will be as hard as a rock and will have to be removed by scraping or sanding. Once flush with the surrounding area though, it can be recolored and most finishes will adhere to the cured glue. Another problem is the issue of personal safety. The accelerator is a combination of certain petroleum distillates and you are spraying this as an aerosol in your personal space. If you have sensitivities to petroleum distillates, be very careful with this product. That glue bond is the real thing and you will lose some skin if you try to force yourself free. Be sure to buy extra tips for the bottle because they do clog up, and remember that unopened containers stored upside down in the freezer will keep the product fresh indefinitely. Most important of all, use your best tool – your head – and be very careful. One often hears that such faults are a result of lumber being used before it had a chance to season fully or that the piece was poorly made. This is a bit unfair, for no matter the seasoning or soundness of construction, one cannot expect a piece that had stabilized through resting undisturbed for years in a temperate atmosphere to escape unscathed from a season in a new home heated to excessive dryness. Sudden changes and extremes in temperature cause splits. There are two methods of tackling splits: closing them up or filling them in. In wide areas made up of two or three narrow boards joined together, such as a table top, splitting usually occurs along the lines of the joins and runs straight. The soundest and neatest way to repair such splits is to reglue the boards and clamp them together again. This can be done only if the offending top or side can be removed from its body or at least can be freed to move. If, when this sort of repair is made, a gap is left at one end -say, on one side of a chest - it can be remedied by gluing on a makeup strip. If this is impractical, then the split can be closed by inserting a strip of the same wood and grain pattern.
Glue Choices for Chairs and Stools
A more exacting task is called for when a split occurs in a single board. The gaps are triangular, so before a strip or shim can be inserted, the sides of the split must be made parallel and even along their lengths with a saw. When the glue is dry, any excess wood can be trimmed down and the raw surface stained and polished to blend with the area. In a repair of this nature, it is essential that the surfaces on both sides of the split remain completely level. It will help if a block is placed across the repair, with a cutout, if necessary, to bridge the strip. The block is clamped down, insuring that when the repair is finished, an even surface remains. When splits are so fine that even wood the thinness of veneer cannot be inserted, the best remedy is to drip hot wax along the split, shielding the sides with masking tape. That helps keep the sealer from melting the finish. After cooling, excess wax can be removed and the repair polished over. Cabinetmakers were not unmindful of the hazards of shrinking, so the panel method of construction was developed. The panels were merely a filling of wood that fitted into grooves in the framework. The panels were then free to float and shrink within the frames. That is why one can come across a light strip of unfinished wood on a piece of furniture where shrinking has forced it out of its groove. Very strong adhesive which bonds to most rigid materials in approximately 15 minutes. Ideal for delicate yet permanent repairs. The company was established in 1948 and manufactures over 800 products that is sold worldwide to thousands of very happy customers.
I even washed the glass after 24 hours without any issues. In this video you’ll learn about disassembling the piece, cleaning the joints and choosing the correct glue for reassembly. This particular repair uses hot melt polyurethane glue because of its gap-filling characteristics.
CA glue the latest tool for fixing loose veneer and
Once you reach the end, use a 1/8″ mortising chisel to chip out the remaining parts of the dowel. It was not mentioned during the video and it was make to look like an objective review. Please do not do something that will make it difficult to look into straight into the eyes who value this trade and look at every single recommendation with a grain of salt. They’re viable demos of woodworking techniques that we’ve done our due diligence on. The “advertisement” referenced the block below and is typical of all web site presentations. The whole point of these videos is to demonstrate ways to improve on your woodworking ability and to learn new ways to accomplish old procedures. The stuff when cured is really, really strong.
I did it wrong and tried to pry the gussets off. The outer layer of plywood failed and came off in shreds. Should work great for repairs like your stool. Can you explain why hide glue is not the best choice.
Of course epoxy that has to be mixed is a whole nuther headache and more expensive when you consider also the cost of a disposable syringe that must be used.
I dislike the use of hot melt glues because when you have a lot of joints to join at one time many of the joints with glue will have cooled before you mate the parts. Moses discuss the process for making a cribbage board from scrap wood in your woodworking shop. These proteins form a molecular bond with the glued object. Stereotypically, the animal in question is a horse , and horses that are put down are often said to have been "sent to the glue factory". The advent of synthetic adhesives heralded the collapse of the animal glue industry.
How To Repair Wooden Chair Joints
See how to repair loose wooden chair joints properly from start to finish. Scott shows how to disassemble a wobbly chair and the.
Hide glue is also preferred by many luthiers over synthetic glues for its reversibility, creep-resistance and tendency to pull joints closed as it cures. This adhesive is mostly used as glue, sizing, or varnish, although it is not as frequently used as other adhesives because it is water-soluble. Recently, animal glue has been replaced by other adhesives and plastics, but remains popular for restoration. Glass artists take advantage of hide glue's ability to bond with glass, applying hide glue to glass. As the glue hardens it shrinks, chipping the glass. It has several advantages and disadvantages compared to other glues. The glue is applied hot, typically with a brush or spatula. Glue is kept hot in a glue pot, which may be an electric unit built for the purpose, a double boiler, or simply a saucepan or crock pot to provide a warm water bath for the container of glue. Steam can also be used to soften glue and separate joints. Specific types include hide glue , bone glue , fish glue , rabbit skin glue. It may be supplied as granules, flakes, or flat sheets, which have an indefinite shelf life if kept dry. Commercial glue pots, simple water baths or double boilers may be used to keep the glue hot while in use. At room temperature, prepared hide glue has the consistency of stiff gelatin, which is in fact a similar composition.
Joining parts after the open time is expired results in a weak bond. Hide glue's open time is usually a minute or less. Where hide glue is in occasional use, excess glue may be held in a freezer, to prevent spoilage from the growth of microorganisms. Hide glue that is liquid at room temperature is also possible through the addition of urea. The 'glue liquor' is then drawn off, more water added, and the process repeated at increasing temperatures. Hide glue joints are reversible and repairable. Recently glued joints will release easily with the application of heat and steam. Hide glue sticks to itself, so the repairer can apply new hide glue to the joint and reclamp it. Hide glue creates a somewhat brittle joint, so a strong shock will often cause a very clean break along the joint. This brittleness is taken advantage of by instrument makers. For example, instruments in the violin family require periodic disassembly for repairs and maintenance. The top of a violin is easily removed by prying a palette knife between the top and ribs, and running it all around the joint. Regluing the top only requires applying new hot hide glue to the joint. Hide glue also functions as its own clamp. Once the glue begins to gel, it pulls the joint together. Violin makers may glue the center seams of top and back plates together using a rubbed joint rather than using clamps. At this point the plate is set aside without clamps, and the hide glue pulls the joint together as it hardens. Hide glue regains its working properties after cooling if it is reheated. This property can be used when the glue's open time does not allow the joint to be glued normally.
REPAIRING SPLITS IN OLDER FURNITURE
For example, a cello maker may not be able to glue and clamp a top to the instrument's ribs in the short one-minute open time available. Instead, the builder will lay a bead of glue along the ribs, and allow it to cool. Moving a few inches at a time, the maker inserts a heated palette knife into the joint, heating the glue. When the glue is liquefied, the palette knife is removed, and the glue cools, creating a bond. A similar process can be used to glue veneers to a substrate. The veneer and/or the substrate is coated with hot hide glue. Once the glue is cold, the veneer is positioned on the substrate. A hot object such as a clothes iron is applied to the veneer, liquefying the underlying glue. When the iron is removed, the glue cools, bonding the veneer to the substrate. Hide glue joints do not creep under loads. Hide glue is supplied in many different gram strengths , each suited to specific applications. Instrument and cabinet builders will use a range from 120 to 200 gram strength. Some hide glues are sold without the gram strength specified. Experienced users avoid this glue as the glue may be too weak or strong for the expected application. It is used in the sizing or priming of oil painters' canvases. It also is used in bookbinding and as the adhesive component of some recipes for gesso and compo. Does anyone know of a tough glue which is either easy to clean or doesn't make a glue stain when varnished?
While wet, it is easily cleaned with a damp paper towel. Once dried, if there is a small bead, it is easily chipped off with a knife. It sounds like you get quite a bit of squeeze out.
I suggest tightening up the tenon in the mortise and cut down on the amount of glue. The trick is to leave it alone until it is solid.
You can use far less urethane than yellow types, helping to offset the cost and reducing the foaming. The bonds are as good, and clean-up easier than with other glues. Cutting with a chisel and sanding is not working either, because it's too slow. They have very short open times so you need to be careful there.
I think the rational approach is to ask yourself what the lifespan of the chair you are building is going to be. On the other hand, if you wish your chair to be an heirloom, easily repaired (ie cost effectively repaired) then hide glue is the only logical choice. Then, when you glue up, the squeeze out just pops off the areas where you don't want it. Easy clean up, it stains and varnishes well, and it is repairable. It is a bit pricy, and it has a 1 year shelf life. All glue eventually will fail, especially if you're relying completely on it to hold your work together. A chair that is made using epoxy for the adhesive for instance will be impossible to disassemble for repair if necessary. She quickly got the point that it simply wasn't worth it to repair this chair. The chair was never meant to be repaired. Consequently, it was a great opportunity to highlight the differences between factory and custom. My chairs are cheap, straight legged basic things. Epoxies are mostly thermoplastic waxes used as glues.
Antique Wood Furniture Restoration Hide Glue — AntqRestoration
Your son covered his wood dresser with stickers, and now he wants to take them off. After a late-night model-plane building session, you noticed drops and smears of model glue on your hardwood floor. If you have the glue container, check the print for removal tips, or visit the manufacturer's website for recommendations. Barring that, it's best to start with the safest solutions first and move to stronger solutions only if you have to. Before trying anything on your furniture, test it in a small, inconspicuous area of the wood you are trying to clean. Keep in mind that a lot of wood furniture and flooring has a surface finish, such as lacquer or polyurethane. In this case, you're removing the glue from the finish rather than the wood, so be careful that the remover won't damage the finish material. This will work especially well on small adhesive stains.
You can also use an actual orange peel to dissolve glue. Rub the peel onto the stain, let it sit for 10–15 minutes, then wipe with a clean rag. This works especially well for sticker residues. Soak a cotton ball or cotton swab with the alcohol, then rub the stain until the adhesive is gone. It can also help to rub the stained area with a damp cloth and a small amount of dish soap after using alcohol. This should loosen up the adhesive so you can pull it away, then rub it with a clean cloth. Petroleum jelly is, of course, oil-based, so be sure to keep it away from fabrics to prevent oil stains. Rinse the area with a damp cloth afterward. Do not use this method on unfinished or oil-finished wood, which might not do well with the moisture. This is a good option if you're planning to refinish the piece. Experiment in an inconspicuous area to find the best match for the original surface. How do we know which among them is the best and strongest wood glue?
When using this kind of glue, the wood parts being bonded should be firmly clamped since movement will cause the glue to break and become weaker. Polyurethane also expands due to chemical reactions with moisture and air so it can fill voids that other glues can’t fill. This makes exceptionally solid glue joints, and therefore, sturdier furniture. Unlike other types of glues that become sealers on the wood surface, polyurethane glue doesn’t dry to a “gummy” texture. However, because it reacts with moisture, it has a tendency to harden in its container when moist air becomes trapped within it. It’s also very messy and hard to remove since most solvents are ineffective on it. It is therefore advised that you use gloves when working with this kind of glue so that you won’t get it stuck in your hands.
Since you have to manually heat and mix it to get the right consistency and tackiness, it’s custom-made for each type of wood and thus will often work better than the other glues. It’s also very easy to repair since it can be reactivated by moisture, which means it is very helpful in furniture restoration. However, this may also be a problem for furniture stored in damp locations. Because of this, certain hide glue formulas and formula finishes have been made to stop or slow the glue failure. Unfortunately, no one uses hide glue very much anymore since it requires a lot of work before use. This is very unappealing compared to the easy squeeze bottles that other glues come in.
There is actually a one-step product hide glue available but it is also not very favorable since it doesn’t have a long shelf life once opened. As of now, the best and strongest wood glue has not been pinpointed yet. However, the three types of glue mentioned above are the ones most likely to receive the title. Since each of them has their own strengths and weaknesses, the use of these glues should depend upon what you’re going to use them for and where you’re going to use them on.
We would love to hear your comments or questions – leave them below. These are some of her tried-and-true techniques for repairs that stand the test of time. The first casualties are often rungs popping out of the legs.
You may have to bend the brace a little so it's flush against the chair leg—you don't want a gap between the brace and the leg," she says. If gluing loose rungs and tightening the hardware doesn't work, then add right-angle corner braces.
You can buy the braces at hardware and home improvement stores for just a couple bucks for a four pack. Make sure to buy the paintable kind if you want to paint the braces to match the chair.
You may have to bend the brace a little so it's flush against the chair leg—you don't want a gap between the brace and the leg," she says. This eliminates having to drive screws through the seam in the hopes of pulling the gap closed. Add the brace in an inconspicuous location, like the back of the piece.
Removing Glue and Adhesive Stains Wood Furniture
Some people compound the problem by trying to drive several screws through the furniture into the leg to secure it. That causes more problems by splitting the wood. Then she applies wood glue and clamps the leg firmly in place. The wood is too thin to nail, and pinning it cracks or breaks the wood, making it even harder for the joints to go together. Then gently take the corner the rest of the way apart and sand away any remaining old glue. Apply wood glue, reassemble the corner and clamp the drawer until the glue dries. Even dressers, tables, and desks made from real wood probably also have veneers. Over time, the veneer can come loose from the underlying wood surface or chip off. Place a wood scrap or shim over the veneer and clamp it down. The scrap piece of wood keeps the clamp from damaging the veneer and applies even pressure. Make sure the filler can be painted or stained. Luckily, this is one of the easiest furniture problems to solve—and it doesn't involve sticking matchbooks under the table legs.