Did you scroll all this way to get facts about rustic hope chest ?
The most common rustic hope chest material is wood.
This blanket chest is the ideal project to showcase this technique. This simple, butt-jointed cedar chest can hold a good number of items or it can be customized to a larger size.
You can build this chest from one, 1 x 12 x 8 ft solid cedar board plus a few other necessities. Also, we have put together some helpful tips for cutting the chest hinge mortises.
Start a tradition which once ran in all our families. All these elements combine to give this piece a really impressive, graceful look.
I used a vacuum form mold to make the curved top and dove tails for the joinery.
I hope you take the time to make this nice little chest.
I tried every new system that came along, but they all seemed way too complicated. Sand the top smooth inside and out and finish to suit.
These hinges work as a hinge and lid support all in one. The tray slides on ¾-inch supports placed around the inside of the chest. The tray is made from ½-inch stock, but ¾-inch plywood will also work for the bottom. The tray is also assembled with wood screws, glue and plugs. Whether you’re wet behind the ears or a seasoned expert at the craft, here’s a roundup of handy new woodworking tools to consider for your next equipment purchase. They were given to young women to use to store all then things they collected in preparation for marriage. Rip the strips to proper width and plane their bottom edges. Lightly round the bottom inside edges with a sander to provide a smoother, softer feel when the lid is lifted. Measure and cut the end pieces for a 45-degree miter joint. Glue these in place using bar clamps to hold securely. Allow to set overnight, and then cut the front piece to fit between, and glue and clamp it in place. Fill any slight cracks with good quality wood putty. If glue has squeezed out between the edge-banding and top joints, remove with a sharp chisel. Fasten in place with screws driven from the inside of the bottom case into the aprons. Install the opposite end piece in the same manner and then install the front and back aprons. Make sure all joints are tight and smooth. Cut corner blocks for the feet and install with screws and glue. Finish-sand and smooth the entire case, then apply the desired finish. Polyurethane brush-on satin varnish was used with this case, four coats, using extremely fine steel wool between coats. After the top is sanded smooth and final cuts are made on the ends, rout the decorative top edge of the banding using a 3/8-inch beading router bit in a router table or by hand routing. Place glue on one end piece and clamp in place. It’s a good idea to make a wooden pattern for the end cuts from 1/4-inch plywood.
You can clamp the ends to a workbench or table top and cut with a jig saw, but a bandsaw makes the work much easier and more precise. A bench-top drum sander makes this chore easiest, but you can also clamp the pieces in a vise and use a drill-mounted drum sander.
Exclusive Deals on Blanket Chests
Rout and cut the top edge-banding to shape and glue end pieces to the top. Allow to set overnight, and then install the front piece. These screws should be countersunk to prevent their edges from catching on items. Cut corner blocks for the feet and install in the same manner. Cut the glued-up top to the correct size. Their top edges are routed using a 3/8-inch beading router bit. This is done easiest on a router table, but you can also use a hand-held router. Simply clamp the stock to a solid surface, rout one end, then reclamp and finish routing. Make sure you stop and start carefully so there is no marring. Temporarily clamp the ends in place, then match/measure and cut the front and back apron pieces, making sure they all meet smoothly and the joints are tight. Allow the glue to set overnight, then use a belt sander to sand the plugs flush with the wood surface. Cut the bottom and fasten it in place with hardwood cleats. Fasten the aprons in place with glue and wood screws. Apply the desired finish to the inside of the case and then cut and install the bottom. This can be 3/4-inch plywood, or solid stock. If the latter is used, install crosswise of the case. Fasten in place with glue and screws driven up from the underside of the bottom support strips. Pop out the plugs, place a bit of glue on their ends and tap with a rubber mallet into the holes to cover the screws. The end cuts can be done using a miter gauge on a table saw.
DIY Blanket Storage Chest
Run a glue line on both edges of one end and position the front and back in place. Use bar clamps to fasten the assembly together, and you may need help for this step. When you’re sure the assembly is aligned properly, install the screws. Before installing the screws, predrill into the edges of the end board as well. A spindle sander makes easy work of sanding the inside curves of the aprons. Cut the plugs using a plug cutter installed in a drill press.
I used this method because it’s extremely strong, easy, and also provides some decorative appeal. The screw holes will have to be drilled, and also holes for the plugs formed. If you have a countersink bit set you can do this operation in one step. Then, use a 1/8-inch drill bit to drill for the screws. Make sure the plug-hole bit drills a hole to match the plug cutter.
Cut the ends of the apron pieces to create 45-degree miter joints. Before assembling, cut the glued-up sections to proper width and length. Position the two boards with the biscuits aligning in both slots and tap together with a rubber hammer. Make sure all boards are flat on the bar clamps and tighten the clamps alternatively until all seams are tight and glue is squeezed out. Cut the plugs using a plug cutter in a drill press. Regardless of how careful you are in joining the boards, there will be some slight differences in the edge joints.
Use a hand plane or a belt sander with a coarse belt to even all surfaces on the back and front of the glued-up sections. As you can see, using hardwood-faced plywood is much easier and faster, but you would need to glue solid strips to the exposed ends or miter the corner joints. Then drill with a 1/8″ bit for the screws, fasten the chest case together. Lay bar clamps in place—you’ll need at least four, and more is better. Stand one board for the front assembly on edge and using good quality wood glue, run a glue line across the edge and into the biscuit slots. Insert the biscuits, turn the adjoining board upright and place glue in the biscuit slots. Place glue on the pieces and clamp together. If biscuit joining, lay one board out flat and set the biscuit cutter depth to half the thickness of the board. Press the biscuit cutter against the edge of the board aligning the center mark on the cutter with the mark on the board, turn on the cutter and push the blade into the stock. Then, cut the adjoining boards in the same manner. Using a thin screwdriver blade, clean all the wood chips from the biscuit holes. Using a forstner bit, bore holes for the wood plugs. The case is assembled using screws covered with matching wood plugs.
A hand plane can smooth the wood surface. First, lay the pieces for a side or top on a smooth, flat surface and butt the edges together. Make sure the edges align properly and fit snug. Re-joint any edges that have bumps, waves or rough spots. Place glue on the adjoing edges and in the biscuit slots. Mark one end of each board with a letter. This helps identify boards and the gluing sequence. Mark across the edge of two boards with the marks spaced about 6 inches apart. This same sequence can be used whether doweling or biscuit joining.
I had to glue up the top twice, due to a “twisted” board. Lay out the pieces and mark across their faces for the biscuit locations. Then, joint one edge and saw the stock to the widths needed. When using this type of “salvaged” walnut lumber there will be waste, including the outside sapwood. Once all stock has been sawn, joint all the edges smooth. Clean the slots with a small screwdriver. Cut the biscuit slots using a biscuit cutter. The wide stock shown was assembled with wood biscuits and a biscuit cutter. It would also cut down on the weight somewhat, as well as possible warping problems. The wide pieces needed for construction are joined using wood biscuits.
Everest Blanket Chest
First step is to plane and joint the rough-cut planks.
I decided to build the chest from walnut grown, harvested, cured and milled on our farm. The wood had been curing for about four years in my barn and was ready to be used. Other wood choices would be oak, cherry, pecan, red cedar or even white pine.
You might consider making the chest from plywood to cut the cost and make construction easier. This would eliminate gluing up the solid stock. Then we sealed the top with several coats of clear gloss polycrylic to give it a glossy finish. This make for a great contrast to the glossy top. For other finishing ideas visit the finishes page. As always if you have any questions don’t hesitate to comment below and especially don’t forget to post pictures of your finished products in the comments!
Hope chests are also called blanket chests because they were often used to store quilts and other valuable collectible items. Space them 6″ apart; each being 3″ from center. To prevent tear out when drilling, make sure to start the hole from one side and as soon as the tip of the bit barely breaks out of the other side, use that as a location and finish the hole from the other side. Then run the rope through the hole (from inside to out) and back in the other. Pull firmly on the handle to tighten knots and cut rope as close as possible to the knots. These holes should be 7-1/2″ from the top so that they do not clash with the cedar shelf. Now, using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, screw the sides together and the bottom to the sides.
You may drill slots in the two side to create handles (like a serving tray) if you wish.
You may also want to skip to finishing before completing this step. First install the piano hinge on the back, top rail of the box and the top per manufacturers instructions. Now install right and left safety hinges per manufacturers instructions. Finally add the bumpers to the corners of the top to prevent the top from rubbing against the chest. Next, using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, screw together the three 1x6x20-3/4″ boards to form the bottom. A cedar shelf provides great storage for those smaller items as well as helps keep the bugs out. Some vinyl lettering was laid over the stained area to protect from paint and after removing leaves a beautiful stained personalization. Make sure to bury the screws slightly into the wood so you can fill and sand smooth for paint.
Then screw and glue together using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws and wood glue. Do so by cutting to size and mitering the corners at 45 degrees. Screw together using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Safety hinges on this toy chest / hope chest will keep the little ones from smashing there fingers. Certain trunk pieces feature etched inlays, which add to the rustic style.
You can even purchase a trunk to utilize as a hope chest for your children. Don't forget to dust your rustic trunk as you would with your other wood furniture to keep it looking stunning. Hope chests are popular in the south and are used by unmarried, young women, to store clothing and household items in preparation for marriage. My thought was that is could currently be used as a toy chest until then. Wayfair even offers suitcase sets in styles that resemble decorative trunks, ideal for easily locating your luggage. These also work well for storing childhood toys that your children have grown out of. What features do rustic decorative trunks have?
Amish Hope Chest Patterns
This provides you with extra seating or ottoman options in living areas and bedrooms. How can you accessorize rustic decorative trunks?
These trunks work well with other rustic furniture, like log coffee tables. Consider using one to store wood in near your fireplace or wood stove. Rustic decorative trunks can also function as night tables for futons, or turn the trunk so it sits vertically to pair with traditional beds. But the true touch is the overlay of vintage newsprint!
It’s the best of nostalgia in a modern world. The jumbo and medium trunks in this set are accented with faux brown leather edging with brass studs. Wayfair even offers sets of rustic decorative trunks, which look stunning when stacked on one another. These pieces typically feature wooden bases with vintage style hinges, locks, and handles. What other things can you store in rustic decorative trunks?
Use separately to elevate a showpiece and as a table and just as a stylish practical storage. Each piece has a faux leather finish with strapping details. Crafted with heart by expert artisans and naturally finished to showcase the liveliness of the wood, this collection's beauty shines through its workmanship and breathes new life into any space. The coffee table has 4 drawers, two on each side. Warm brass drawer handles add a refined finishing touch. This item is artisan crafted with meticulous care. Given its handmade and hand-finished nature, blemishes and variations in the woodwork are to be expected and celebrated. The three storage benches with cushions are elevated by their iron feet, adding more vintage charm to these functional pieces of accent furniture. Apart from its attractive looks, this coffee table has a dovetail construction which gives your living space the kind of practicality that never fails to impress.
Straight lines with heavy gauge black vinyl covering and dark metallic outlines complement the trunk’s stunning look. The lid of this chest has a key lock and two latches on the sides. The chest boasts of ample room inside in that is ideal for storing books, newspapers, and magazines. Straightforward lines are brought to life with the aged gray finish that appears to have weathered the elements, bringing character and life to this beautiful collection. Trim pieces are skip peeled by hand using old-fashioned draw knives for a unique, one of a kind appearance. The large and small trunks in this set are accented with faux brown leather edging with brass studs. Bronze colored metal handles and front closure complete the set's historic feel.
Steel, spring assisted hinges to ensure years of trouble free use. Painted distressed blue green with gold and cream scrolling on the front and delicately placed floral accents, it’s an utterly charming storage trunk that proves storage doesn’t have to be plain. The set of decorative chests come in 3 sizes and colors, including rich burgundy, dark brown with a purple undertone, and dark camel tan colors. With its dark matte finish, this cedar chest works seamlessly with historic or more modern decor. This large chest has old-fashioned hardware, adding to its historic feel. Painted distressed teal-blue with gold and cream scrolling on the front and delicately placed floral accents, it’s an utterly charming storage trunk that proves storage doesn’t have to be plain.
Handmade Rustic Reclaimed Barnwood Hope Chest by American Woodworx LLC
This spacious wooden chest is perfect for bedrooms and living rooms!
Lightly cerused oak adds soft white pigmentation in the wood grain, creating texture and inspiring a true farmhouse look. A sleek silhouette and contemporary legs add a chic touch. Hitch a riding tour refined rustic with this storage trunk cocktail table in the living room or as a linens center in the hall. The center of the top lifts to reveal a deep storage area perfect for throws, and both ends of the top conceal additional storage areas. Its open sides provide even more space to store items like books and games. Each leather trunk has a wood frame with a faux leather outer, buckles, studs, and dark iron latches and hardware for a vintage feel. It is perfect for storing extra blankets, pillows, and sheets. Made with a laminated top, it’s quick to construct, and sturdy enough to use as a seat. The finished size is about 20” tall, 19-1/2” deep, and 51-1/2” wide.
I finished the exterior of this chest with boiled linseed oil , which gave the cedar really nice depth and emphasized the natural wood tones.
I also filled the interior pocket holes with wood filler and sanded them smooth. Let that wonderful cedar smell soak into all your blankets!
They add great character to the chest and help to reinforce the trim on the lid.
Join me for a little bit o' fun and a whole lotta sawdust. All our wood plans are available for immediate download. Insert the hardboard base into the chest. Use wood glue to attach it to the dowels and center braces along the bottom of the chest. Attach base trim to the bottom of the chest with wood glue and finish nails. Attach front upright trim to the chest with wood glue and finish nails. Finish the lid by adding extra support pieces in the corners.
I used some spare boards that were lying around, cut them off at 45° perpendicular miters, and attached them in the corners with wood glue and finish nails. Attach the ends to the front and back pieces with 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws and wood glue. Add a square dowl to the ends of the chest. Let me tell ya, she’s got some great ideas up her sleeves!
A note on the style – the house is log with rough cedar trim and rustic country decor.