This reading chair made from walnut shells can be "upholstered" with a range of fabrics, or planted with moss for a natural seat effect in a miniature garden. If you have access to hazelnuts (filberts) or acorns, you can make an acorn tea or coffee set, or some wine glasses to set on your tiny table.

The table is made from twigs, with a top of craft wood covered with dried grass stems. In rustic scenes, it adds a civilized touch that contrasts nicely. If you have just recently purchased yourself a new chainsaw, or perhaps it is the first time you’ve pulled yours out in a while, please take time now to thoroughly read and understand the owners manual and users guide that came with your saw. When preparing to cut a log with you chainsaw be sure your are wearing all the proper safety equipment.

Keep in mind however, there are standard sizes for just about any type of furniture. When it comes to sitting down, you will find most arm chairs are around 2 foot wide, loveseats 4 foot long and larger benches 5 foot or more. As you will observe, this leaves a seating area of between 16 – 18 inches which is typical for just about any type arm chair.

You don’t want anything laying around that will trip you up and potentially cause you to fall.

You never want to cut a log with it laying directly on the ground!

Once you have determined where you will be cutting the log and you have cleared the area of any unwanted debris it is time to get to work.

You are always going to want to be sure and hold your chainsaw with both hands. Never attempt to make a cut with your chainsaw using just one hand. Next, establish a good firm footing, squaring up and facing the log head on. Avoid using the tip or rounded portion of the bar as this will increase the chance for ‘kick-back’. Once you have fired-up your chainsaw, start the cut using a steady down-ward pressure. Gently work the saw back and forth in a slight rocking motion as you proceed through the log. Make sure to never touch the ground with the bar or chain. It is always best to consider what pieces of log furniture you are making before starting up you chainsaw. Measure-up and mark the logs before you start your saw. Take time to consider any knots, limbs or imperfections in the log that will enhance the finished piece of furniture. Doing all of this before actually starting up the chainsaw will make your cutting time more efficient, and even safer, as your attention will be focused solely on your saw and cutting the log. If you plan on cutting several logs to make more than one piece of log furniture it is a good idea to take time and cut some ‘log cradles’. To make yourself a set of cradles, simply cut a notch in some of your cut-offs or scrap logs. This will be well worth your effort considering the time and energy it takes to properly sharpen your chain. Remember, running your chainsaw into the ground is the fastest way to ruin any chain while potentially causing injury to yourself. Finally, when cutting logs with a chainsaw, it is important to keep the alignment of the bar and chain away from your line of sight. Always hold the saw out and away from your body. This will help keep flying wood chips, saw dust and debris from blowing back into your face. Or if the saw should unexpectedly kick-back you will remain well out of harms way. My wife is wanting log type rustic furniture on the outside, and wants a log bed. If you like our table but want something that looks a little more polished, just expand the finishing step. Whether you live in the country or your home is in the city, you can still have beautiful rustic décor and you can do it all yourself.

You can find everything from headboards and picture frames to cabinets and shelves made from wooden pallets. Whatever your dream for a rustic look, you are sure to find something in this collection that will help you along.

Easy Rustic Furniture Build

Many of these projects are so easy to do and you can complete them in less than a day. Some make wonderful gifts as well so if you know someone else who just loves the country, rustic look, make them something to brighten their own décor. The projects use all sorts of materials, many of which are really inexpensive or even cheap in some cases. This project can be done with just about any material you want but if you really want the rustic look, you can use pallet boards and old barn wood. If you are looking to update your cabinets, why not just wrap the handles in twine?

The great thing about them is you can do so much with them – like these quick and easy pallet shelves.

You only need about three hours per shelf and a few supplies and you can stain them in whatever color you want to make them match your existing décor. This bench would look fabulous on the deck or just inside the door, wherever you want to put it. When you finish putting it all together, just sand and stain it whatever color you want and you have a beautiful bench that cost you very little to create.

You can even add small satin ribbons to decorate them a bit if you wish. These are easy to do and look so beautiful in any room. This is another really easy project that looks beautiful when finished. You’ll need to make the shelf to hold your wine bottles and then use a drill to create a hanging section for wine glasses at the bottom.

You just have to glue the rope to the frame, making sure that you cover the original frame completely. This is a great gift idea or would look perfect in any little cowboy’s bedroom. Rope works beautifully for the base and you just have to wrap it completely, ensuring that you hot glue it down as you go. Add a rustic new lamp shade and you have a beautiful new lamp that costs you very little if anything at all. Just pattern the pieces and stick them together with wood glue and small nails. Then you just have to add legs of some sort and you have a very expensive looking coffee table that is a lot cheaper than it looks.

How to Make Fairy Garden Furniture Twigs

If you don’t already have a few on hand, just cut up the slices from branches that you can find in your yard. Then just use a hot glue gun to secure them to a plastic frame and you have a lovely rustic frame that is perfect for any picture. Just glue the twigs to the frame and let the kids decorate however they want. If you have a kitchen island or if you have always wanted one, make it from bricks or stones. This gives your entire kitchen a beautiful rustic look and the project is actually a lot easier than you may think. If you have a wall available, you can create this lovely setting by simply adhering wood pieces to the wall.

You can also build a small wall to create a division wherever you need it. Once you have a clock kit in hand, just find a great piece of wood, varnish and stain it and then add the clock to create a beautiful wooden clock. This is a great piece for rooms or you can use it in kitchens, bathrooms or bedrooms as well.

You can hot glue those small twigs to glass or plastic candle holders to create beautifully rustic décor. Once you have them all in place and secured with hot glue, tie a burlap or satin bow around to really make them special.

Not only does this give you beautiful rustic décor, it also serves a very handy function by keeping mail neatly organized.

You just need a few pieces of wood and some small coat hooks at the bottom to hang your keys. Stain it in any color you want and you have a very functional and very beautiful sorter. This is a relatively easy project that will add beauty and value to any home. Just choose the wall that you want to change, and add wooden planks which you can pick up at most home improvement for very little. Just assemble, sand and then stain to whatever color you want.

You just have to purchase the wood needed and then assemble everything together. It is a great porch bench and you can stain or paint it whatever color you need to match your existing décor. This is a relatively easy project and will change the look of your room instantly. If you are planning to have a new fireplace installed, consider using the wooden mantel instead of rock or stone. It’s a great look and it’s relatively inexpensive to create.

I must disagree with the first sentence, that rustic is 'in' right now. These ideas solve many problems: saving money - providing beautiful, much needed, items for the home - getting to be creative.

I really love the wooden picture frames and the kitchen backsplash. A few simple farm artifacts like milk canisters can work wonders. The edges are distressed to give it a great rustic look.

You can also buy – or even create – a custom headboard. After all, when camping out in the woods, you aren’t just surrounded by trees. At the top of the hill—half-hidden in a hemlock grove—was a collection of little-used hunting cabins that dated from the lake's earliest resort days.

Out front, the hill dropped off sharply and a narrow stairway zigzagged down to a lakeside gazebo that held a clutter of chairs, settees and tables. The gazebo's roof was thick with lichen and moss, and the rough plank floor was littered with squirrel-hollowed nutshells and clam shells left by raccoons. In the center, a gnarled and knot-holed log reached to the roof peak. Around the perimeter were more whole-log supports, each with two opposing branches growing out from the trunk at just the right angles to support the eaves poles. Chair frames were saplings with branches braided to make backrests. A settee was fashioned out of a section of huge wild grapevine that arched in the middle to frame the back. Each end bent down and out abruptly, jutting forward to form the arms. A little side table veneered in birch bark had a cross rung made from a tree branch growing through a paper wasps' nest. The local old-timers called it "shaky twig furniture" and made it over winter to sell to tourists.

I begged the family to please, please get some for our place. Optimists anticipating the second half of the 20th century free of war, famine and disease with universal prosperity fueled by cheap, clean atomic energy where everything would be automated and made of plastic and trimmed in chrome.

I stayed at home during the summers after that and returned but once, 20 years later. Indeed, a , a log bedstead, or rustic chair offered a way to dispose of a few logs. The furniture they made was rustic, not by intent but of necessity, made with primitive tools under primitive conditions. Made not by cabinetmakers but by the people who used it and hewn from the forest that was at once their primary adversary and the provider of food, housing materials, heating fuel, and livelihood. An early deal table and benches or a woven rush-seat chair is four-square, undecorated, and utilitarian. What embellishment peeks through is grudging—a knot enlivening the surface of a hand-planed sideboard was endured as an intrusion of imperfect nature on the work of man. If it was not filed down to a civil smoothness, it was not from lack of will but because the time, energy, or tools were lacking. And when the homestead was established and crops were paying off, the good folks sent off for factory-made bedsteads, chairs, and tables and relegated the old rustic furniture to the barn loft.

How to Cut a Log to Make Rustic Furniture

The crude furniture of saplings, twigs, and bark that embody "the rustic tradition" did not originate with rustic people who yearned for the accoutrements of civilization but became a fashion with urbanites who had never experienced the hard freedoms of life on the frontier—civilized urbanites longing for wildness and rustic virtue. But, like city people before them, they enlivened their townhouses with walled gardens—enclosing, "civilizing;" and ordering nature. His handmade house, bed, table, and three chairs were rustic and utilitarian as any pioneer's. Many 30-room "great cottages" were located a day or more away from any railroad terminal, so they had to be built from what was available—wilderness forest products. In a rustic elegance never equaled, the homes were built of logs with great porches and huge rock chimneys, all set into gem-like lake settings. Few of today's rustic furniture makers are country people. They hold degrees from art schools and live and work in town. Perhaps a little more modern than rustic. Rustic furniture for us was and is part of a rural lifestyle choice.

We were and are reacting in part to social, political, and economic forces larger than ourselves. But much of our motivation is a new attitude toward nature. Rather, we have developed a new appreciation of the (deteriorating) relationship between mankind and the planet.

We are the first to make rustic furniture to use in our own homes and lives, as the pioneers did. But we don't make it because we have no other choice. Nor because rustic is fashionable, or because we think it looks quaint in the garden, or because we get sentimental over trees—but because it speaks to us of wildness and we are the first generation in history to appreciate how mankind has destroyed the globe as we rushed to dominate and civilize it.

I also left six inches of most of the other branches. There were over 20 hangers sticking out and—set in a big washtub to catch the drippings—the stand made a great boot, mitten, and snowsuit drier for little kids. Woody old lilac bushes are gnarled and contorted and most home owners are happy to let you cut them out (you'll rejuvenate the bushes). Each piece will be unique and technique is as individual as style. Other makers will disagree and, once you get into it, so will you. Many books and articles claim that "anyone can make" twig furniture. Anyone can build "ramshackle" as it was called in the old days or "shaky-twig furniture" that is casually deigned and quickly nailed up from green boughs. The wood and the tradition demand more respect. The easiest first project is to replicate a comfortable dining room chair in saplings.

You will evolve your own ever-changing style too. Four legs and one or two rungs at front, back, and on both sides are the basis of all rustic furniture.

The more primitive nailed-up pieces are made four-square but are uncomfortable and look amateurish beside any conventional furniture. To give a comfortable sitting angle to a chair or couch, front legs raise the front of the seat a little higher than the rear and bottom rungs are usually longer than the top ones. To offer a slight wedge shape to snug your hips into the seat, front legs are often a little more widely spaced than the rear. Indeed, you can make a wonderfully stable triangular chair with two front legs and but a single large rear leg post. Some instructions tell you to eye the angles that rungs take going into air backs or table legs. Look at any of piece of furniture as a box with four sticks, each making up four sides and each box sharing its sides with the adjoining boxes.

I prefabricate the back and front or both sides of a piece, then connect them with the side rungs. Bottoms of two legs are pressed against the lip and the frame is laid out as though the lip is the floor and the flat, horizontal dimension is really a vertical up-down dimension.

I align runs between legs, parallel to the lip.

I center the level eye on the electric drill over the mortise marks and the holes turn out square (vertical in all dimensions). Tenon stock is laid out on one of the grid lines and tenons whittled to size so that they protrude from each end of the stick, perfectly straight along the grid line (even if the stick itself bends beautifully in several dimensions). For the most pleasing lines, you want to impart a degree of two-dimensional outward splay to the legs (the right front leg, for example, aims forward and a little to the right from the perpendicular).

40 Rustic Home Decor Ideas You Can Build self

This way, the top two-thirds of the sticks that frame the back are parallel, but the lower one-third that will be the legs angle back and out and away from each other. These angles will be different with each chair, but the proper trees are surprisingly easy to locate in a stand of same-age saplings. Or, select a pair of trees and notch as needed to impart the needed angles to the bottom of the trunks (be sure the top of the tree above the breaks is growing straight up). Drill leg mortises into the front/rear frame sticks with desired outward splay (use protractor to angle the drill). To set compound splay angles into seat boards that will be nailed or screwed to the frame (with no mortises to rotate), drill "eyeballed" holes through scrap boards till you get it right, then transfer the angles to finished work by using the board as a guide for the pilot drill. If you've not built the back rails into the frame, it is strongest to frame the back of a nailed-up piece with poles that go all the way to the floor. Mortise backs in mortise and tenon-joined pieces the same way you installed the legs. Cedar and white oak poles will split right down the middle and you can notch the rounded side and attach them to the frame flat side up. Canvas, leather, or sheet vinyl slings make quick seats/backs.

I like to staple on broad sheets of rawhide leather (wet it when it stretches—but cover just a small section sparingly or it will shrink and bust the chair).

You can weave seats and backs of cloth tape, rushes, or split wood. Thin wood slats make the best backrests and stoutest seats.

You can rive your own from oak or cedar or buy thin hardwood or pine shelving from a lumber outlet. Bending is described under willow furniture. Even off tops of frame rails so slats are even and fasten with two small nails or pegs per joint. Raw wood quickly discolors and will absorb any spill, so you must finish it—see below. That essentially means joints that stay tight. Once a joint breaks, it will work ever looser—wiggling each time the chair is used or temperature and humidity change, imparting movement that generates stresses that will pull the joint apart and loosen other joints. In time your chair will be little but a heap of kindling. A single nail will hold a 90° cross support on a strong, vertical leg.

If sticks cross at a diagonal, it is best to insert three nails: one straight through and one across each small angle. Cut notches where two sticks cross so that they lock each other in place. Use shallow (1/4" to 3/8") cuts in small stock and cut no deeper than halfway through sticks over 2" thick. At first it is best to experiment with scrap stock to learn to make notches that are snug at meeting sides, with the flat and perfectly mated bottoms that make snug joints. There is more to it, however, than just whittling a male (tenon) end and drilling a female (mortise) to fit. Nature offers a mortise/tenon fastener that is as effective and more appropriate than glue: natural shrinkage. If you whittle tenons from superdry stock and drill mortises into relatively green stock, the latter will shrink as it dries and the joint will hold forever, even if the wood gets a little wet, as both pieces will swell together.

I keep dry rung wood (straight pieces 1-2 inches thick and 3 or 4 feet long) behind the wood stove in my shop. In a pinch you can cheat by making rungs from bone-dry hardwood dowel from the hardware store and disguising it by gluing on a covering of birch bark. Go to a woodworkers outlet and buy the slowest setting (1 hour at minimum) clear epoxy they carry. Have a box of disposable tissue on hand to wipe away any excess that oozes out around tenons and butt joints. Get it off before it sets into an ugly blob. It is a good idea to treat skinned poles and water-absorbing bark of outdoor pieces with deck preservative before assembly.

Woodworking Project Tips

Birch and wild cherry bark are waterproof and preservative resistant, but the wood inside will get soft and punky in time and collapse, leaving cylinders of bark intact.

I like to block up and tape or tie nailed-up pieces together with easy on, easy off tape that won't pull off the bark. After that, any wobbles are cured by cutting diagonals and nailing them on. In mortise and tenon pieces, you can rotate sticks holding backs or legs in their sockets to get the right angle and move pegs or tenons in and out of mortise holes to get it all square and level. Mark tenon depth before pulling joints apart—one at a time and adding glue. Then, tap joints home, going around and around the piece till all are firm. Finally, secure pegs or tenons with small nails. Four-legged furniture will be unstable if one of its supports varies from the plane defined by the other three by even a fraction of an inch. A handmade chair's individually formed joints will oppose the movement of sticks, exposing the structure to widely varying stresses.

You can set the piece on its best three legs and shim the fourth. On the other hand, a triangle is the most stable artificial shape we can impose on nature.

You can make giant-sized three-legged milking stools. Add backs and call them chairs, or add tops and call it them tables.

You can find plenty of trees where the crown branches out into three or more legs that offer a ready-made base.

How To Build Rustic Furniture67931

If branches are so thin they bend under load, connect them for mutual support with butt-nailed or mortised stretchers, wire, or twisted vine.

You are on your own in protecting delicate twig work from raucous children. An application of tung oil will cure any damage. Some cats and most puppies will chew it up if permitted.

I find that they are discouraged by an application of a thin, gloppy mixture of a little flour or arrowroot in water and ground white cayenne pepper. It dries quickly, doesn't show, and works if kept fresh till the permanent teeth are in. This will smooth coarse bark a little but primarily opens up smooth bark or skinned poles to accept a finish. Dust clean and rub all over with furniture oil such as tung oil, walnut oil, or boiled linseed oil. The more pole ends, the less contrasty the finish color. This gives the tiny bit of commercial-looking finish that enhances the rustic quality, implying by contrast that the roughness is intentional. Stains vary from light pine to ebony, depending on the wood and the piece. Most twig furniture has bumpy seats and backs that demand well-stuffed seat and back cushions.