Some precautions need to be observed; however, creating an antique look for particle boards allows renters and dormers to enjoy a more luxurious look within budget. Create an antique look with furniture made from particle board.

Use an ammonia-based cleaner on particle board with veneer, but use only a dry cloth on bare particle board. Never use moisture on particle board, as moisture soaks and damages the board. Veneer needs more vigorous sanding, but be careful not to damage the board. Never rush drying time between coats of shellac, paint and stain.

Let dry overnight, then apply a second coat and let dry another night. Sanding paint helps create that time-worn look. Start creating a used, antique look by sanding/distressing the new paint lightly over the entire piece of furniture. Sand corners, knobs and raised areas to create a time-worn look. At this point, paint color will show through, with the stain and sanding creating the wear and tear look of an antique. Buff with a second clean cloth when stain is almost dry.

Repeat for two or three more coats, letting each coat dry well before applying the next layer. Polyurethane protects the particle board from scratches, chips, stains and damage from liquids. This armoire was given to me from a friend. It was left in their crawl space of the new house they bought and in 10 pieces. It goes together like a jigsaw puzzle which explains how they were able to move massive pieces of furniture up tight staircases and doorways back in the 1800s.

I give it a makeover, you are probably wondering. And how do you decide whether or not to give an antique piece of furniture a makeover?

When the armoire was assembled together in my previous house , we noticed the back structure was not entirely secure. The armoire is not secured together with screws or nails or anything like that. It stacks together at the base and the bolts from the front doors hold with the weight of the top piece on top. There were also a few dents, chips and we noticed that the top ornamental piece was cut in half, probably to make it fit into a room a long time ago. There were also no definite markings on the piece anywhere from the furniture maker.

I knew from these deficits, that the piece would only be worth what someone would pay for it.

I even tried to sell it for a time and did not get any buyers. If they didn’t want it to have a makeover, they shouldn’t have given you the piece of furniture!

I first tell them that if they do, it might get a makeover so they are fully aware. Some people like to know that their piece of furniture is off living some glamorous life untouched. But if no one is enjoying it, then it is not making anyone happy. Just make sure to mention that you may or may not give it a makeover. If they find there are no buyers, it’s probably because of the finish!

I also knew deep down it would hurt a little to splash paint over all that beautiful inlay and relief work. It was a mammoth of a job and probably took about 3-4 weeks in total, doing pieces at a time.

I wanted to keep it a natural wood and leave it as is.

We could have used a clear furniture wax on the piece but we finally opted for a white furniture wax finish, very light buffing most of it off.

How to Antique Furniture and Antique Painted Furniture Tutorial

The final result is a slightly white patina mixed into the grain of the wood.

You can still see the natural wood color and the depth of the wood reliefs. There was so much work involved in this piece but at the end of the day, it only cost the price of the wax. There’s no point in living with a finish that you don’t like. The furniture always remains a classic but the finish on it makes it up to date.

We have some huge pieces too and taking them apart to move them would help so much.

We joke that if we ever sell our house, there’s a few things that will come with the house.

You are right- it is difficult to make the decision sometimes. This piece deserves to stand out just as you/your guy did it. What an awesome gift from a friend and truly a keeper forever!

One side has antiqued already but it’s hard to tell in photos.

You are right, too many people just slap paint on old furniture!!

They’ll look so much better with my new upholstered headboard. Now it will be a treasure forever, or until the lady in 3018 decides to do it in orangy veneer, all the rage in 3018… ha!

Thanks i know this will help with some pieces i have and what to do.

I think you could fix that thing at the top someone cut in half. Some furniture refinishers make molds of pieces to replace the missing elements.

I think it was a bow originally at the top. This is such a beautiful and informative post.

How To Decide Whether or Not to Give Antique Furniture

The only problem is that we use it everyday and the chairs have gotten darker from the oils in our hands.

I was worried about that and heard that just a clear wax would still love oil marks.

I waxed it really good but wiped the majority off for a natural seal.

I think it would be a great solution for you too. Could you please tell me the source of the curtains in this room please?

I had a dining room table with the beetles and they constantly created a dust.

I absolutely love that you kept its character but still managed to bring it to modern days somehow.

I may add that when you do makeover a worthless piece of furniture, you give it the worth of your labour and that’s priceless, isn’t it?

I should put my very similar antique armoire in the foyer in front of the stairs (not a huge foyer at all). Kuddos to your boyfriend for all his hardwork!!!

It’s my favorite piece of furniture in the house!

It was mentioned here that antiques need a makeover if they don’t like the finish. Moreover, it’s recommended to go to trusted furniture shops for antique furniture. However, if you want to hedge your investment there are a few golden rules that should apply when you evaluate an object. Knowing when an object was made, who it was made for, and who it was made by is extraordinarily rare. This type of historical information will often generate tremendous buzz with both the scholarly and commercial worlds. The most successful objects are ones that are well balanced and proportioned.

What makes this chest is its’ diminutive size. It is very rare to find a chest this small across the face of the piece. The cabinetmaker has brilliantly executed this piece with a highly developed balance of both height and width. The delicate, yet strong ogee feet give tremendous lift to the chest and the selection of figured wood helps draw the eye up and down the chest. One thing most beginning collectors have trouble grasping is the precision in which furniture was made and ornamented. It is not uncommon to think that because these pieces were made with hand tools, they would look a little rough. Eighteenth-century furniture was made with precision and the carving should be crisp, fluid and done with purpose. If you are able to figure out who owned a piece, that is a wonderful thing. Collectors tend to be drawn to their objects not just for their aesthetic beauty, but their history. People naturally gravitate to works they feel a connection to.

You are going to see how easy it is to give your old furniture a new look. Don’t skip the prep work… it is as important as the painting part.

I like to use the roller for the larger areas and the brush for the legs and the hard to reach places.

This last one is a little deeper but still gorgeous. How much you sand is up to you and your taste.

I was wondering after the antiquing glaze, do you have to seal it with anything else?

Or is it hard setting enough to not worry about another coat of ???

They bring warmth, character, and class into any home. There’s something to be said about the ease of modern living, but mixing in antiques adds a fresh approach to that way of life. While the sides were in good shape, the top had seen a lot of wear and tear. Having the walls and trim painted all the same tone feels really clean and fresh. Plus, it brings loads of storage to the space. The piece is still interesting, but the clean lines feel nice against the more ornate cabinet. The blush tub chairs speak to the photograph over the fireplace. The mid-century sofa talks to the landscape print, and the hunting prints talk to the velvet mat on the woman’s portrait. If you’re new to collecting art, you can start at second-hand stores or purchase prints online. Use books as decorative objects—they make great pedestals when you want something a bit taller, and they look beautiful covering a coffee table. This ensures the room feels current and not too serious. Bringing antiques into your home can only enhance the warmth and enjoyment of your space, all the while helping to enhance your style and make your home feel personal. Antique paint and painted furniture to add depth and character. Paint furniture the desired color using latex paint with a flat, matte, or satin finish. The idea that someone would ask me for guidance was new to me.

Antique Furniture Buying Guide

I painted and antiqued this table all the while taking lots of photos to share with you guys. The size is 16 ounce and you can do several pieces of furniture with one jar unless they are humongous. The technique is as simple as brushing on the toner using an inexpensive chip brush. Leave a lot of toner on the paint for a really aged look or wipe most of the toner off for a slightly worn look. The toner is really dark, don’t try to water it down because it makes the toner dry faster and then it’s hard to work with. Use a damp rag to wipe off a little toner, a dry rag to leave on a lot of toner, a wet rag to wipe off most of the toner. The toner is easy to work with and you have time to work it and get the look you want but once it dries, it’s there to stay!!

Once the toner is applied start wiping it off to get the look shown in the photos here. If you want a really dark look then let the toner set for a while before wiping it off. Practice on a sample board if you are anxious about using the toner. No sealer needed but if you want to add a little sheen then wipe on a clear wax after the toner has cured for a few days. On slick finishes such as hardware you may need to let the toner set for a few minutes before wiping off. Visit my video page for more tutorials…. Show off your stuff and start the weekend with a party.

I have a question u may be able to answer.

I have painted kitchen table from pottery barn. Many years ago someone wiped the top with a magic eraser and messed up the finish. Eventually it became an arts and crafts table for the kids, so now there is glitter and acrylic paint on the top!

I am trying to create an antique feel to my home and once i find the perfect piece i will defintley give this a try. In my experience the glaze dries faster than the toner so you have less time to work with it and also the glaze tends to wash off over time. Glaze is just more difficult to work with?

You are the best at giving new life to furniture!

and at answering questions…and probably many more things that I’m not aware of!

I share furniture painting tutorials weekly. Refinishing and painting furniture tips and techniques. This week’s project was a pretty easy one that anyone can do with just a little bit of paint!!

Antiquing is the technique of glazing a base finish to simulate age or create an interesting color effect. Enamel is the most common base for antiquing, but varnished, shellacked, and lacquered surfaces can also be glazed. Antiquing is not recommended for real antiques, but it can work wonders with a thrift-store find or a cheap unfinished piece. Many colors and combinations are available. Any sound flat or gloss enamel, varnish, shellac, or lacquer finish can be treated with glaze. The greater the contrast between base and glaze, and the brighter the glaze color, the more obvious it will be that the piece of furniture is antiqued. If you’re working over an existing finish, make sure the glaze is compatible. If you’re antiquing an unfinished piece of furniture or covering an old finish, sand and seal the wood. Sand out any chips in the old finish so that the surface is smooth. On pieces to be glazed over an existing finish, clean the wood thoroughly with a detergent solution and dry it well; then wipe it with denatured alcohol. If you’re working on an unfinished piece or covering an old finish, apply a base finish coat of flat or gloss enamel. If necessary, apply a second base coat; sand the surface lightly, clean it, and apply the enamel.

How to Antique Furniture

Let the final coat of enamel dry completely, at least two days. Use a contrasting color for an obvious antiqued look, a muted umber or burnt sienna to simulate age. When the enamel base is dry, brush the glaze on over it, one surface at a time. For glaze retention on highlights, cover highlight areas first, then flat surfaces. Antiquing glaze sets quickly, and the surfaces you glaze first will retain more color than the ones you glaze later. On large surfaces, the glaze can be applied in several stages, if necessary. Let the glaze dry until it starts to dull, as directed by the manufacturer. Then carefully wipe the glaze off with a soft cloth, flat surfaces first, so that the base coat retains color only at areas to be highlighted. Work from the center of each surface out to the edges, wiping carefully along the grain of the wood. Remove the glaze completely from high spots; leave some of it in low spots, in corners, in carvings or decorations, and along edges and moldings. The surfaces wiped last will retain the most glaze; leave the parts you want to highlight until last. Let the glazed surface dry completely, as directed by the manufacturer. Before using these texturing methods on a piece of furniture, experiment on a piece of scrap wood given an enamel base coat. Let the glaze dry until it starts to dull; then wipe it off. Work from the center out, leaving glaze in low spots, in carvings, and along the edges. Remove a little glaze or almost all of it, whichever you prefer. For a wood-grain texture, use a cheesecloth pad; wipe the glaze off in long, even strokes, and then dab it with a scrap piece of carpeting or a stiff-bristled brush. Crumpled newspaper or plastic wrap produces a marble effect; a dry sponge makes a random stipple. Use a burlap bag or a towel for a scratched look. For a leather texture, let the glaze get almost dry; then pad it with a piece of fiberglass insulation.

Make sure the varnish is compatible with the antiqued finish. Apply the varnish directly over the antiquing. If you are looking for another way to create a worn-out look, check out the next section for guidelines on when and how to flyspeck your furniture piece. Collect and organize your projects all in one place!

Whether the piece is new or old, you can easily enhance your décor with unique beauty and personality. All it takes is a base coat of paint and some glaze. But if you prefer the look of a lighter glaze, you can pair it with a dark basecoat instead as long as the two colors are contrasting.

When selecting paint, don’t forget about the finish. A porous finish absorbs glaze better than the satin or eggshell varieties. For your glaze mixture, use a satin finish in the contrasting color. If you don’t have a workshop, try the garage with open windows and doors for air circulation.

You can even work outside, weather permitting. Begin by removing all hardware with a screwdriver or another appropriate tool.

Update Antique Furniture a Fresh Modern Look

Sand unfinished surfaces with medium-grit sandpaper until it is smooth, then clean with paint thinner or mineral spirits and allow them to dry. Then clean with water and all-purpose household cleaner. Rinse thoroughly and allow the surface to dry completely. Remember to work on a drop cloth or tarp for easy cleanup. Keep all paints, chemicals and equipment away from children and pets. Wear gloves to protect your hands and to make clean up easier. Antiquing is not recommended for actual antique pieces you might own. Use either a 2″ or 4″ paintbrush or mini-roller (depending on the size of the object) to apply the basecoat. Allow the surface to dry for several hours or overnight. Now add water a little at a time, stirring well.

You want a consistency that’s a little runny but still adheres to your brush. If you have a large area to cover, you can double or triple the amounts of the paint and glaze mixture. However, working with a small amount at a time is easier and creates less waste. Brush the paint and glaze mixture on the surface, allowing it to collect in the cracks, crevices, and corners.

How to Paint Distress Antique Furniture

Dampen a piece of lint-free cloth with water and begin wiping off the mixture in long, even strokes, starting at the center and moving out towards the corners. As your cloth becomes too wet, replace it with a new one.

You can remove as much or as little glaze as you wish, depending on the effect you’re trying to achieve. If you find you’ve removed too much, just apply more paint and glaze mixture and start again. For different textures and effects, try using rolled-up plastic wrap, newspaper or cheesecloth to wipe off the glaze. Cheesecloth accentuates the wood grain, while crinkled newspaper and plastic wrap marble the surface.

You can use a towel to create a scratched effect. When the glaze mixture has dried completely, proceed to applying a coat of polyurethane. Let the polyurethane dry completely before moving the piece to its rightful place in your home. Dispose of used paint or empty cans appropriately. Clean your mixing pot and brushes with warm, soapy water. Now sit back, relax and let the compliments come pouring in.