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Any and all items refinished, repaired, restored and upholstered. To start with, survey the antique furniture’s condition first. Make out that why the antique furniture demands restoration – is it because its finish is scratched enough to make the wood visible or does it bear watermarks that have brought down its finish value?

Try to ensure that the furniture gets one flat colour, but do not be too harsh on the wood.

After sanding, if there is any scope for repairs, go for it by utilizing wood glue. And accordingly fix other things that need repairs. After you are done repairing, the furniture should be prepared for finishing by sanding again. The restoration of your antique furniture is done. Always bear this thing in mind that at no point of time, you should be harsh with the furniture; after all, the idea is to restore and not to stress the furniture. But to give you a sense of what you're getting into here, let me tell you a story.

They asked if we wouldn't be teaching more if we brought the furniture back to the way it looked to its owners, rather than the way it looked when blackened with age. To be clear, no one was silly enough to suggest removing paint or varnish, just cleaning with very mild solvents and in rare cases matching and touching up chips and paint!

Well this all made perfect sense until they actually did it.

You wouldn't believe the outcry among experts, collectors and connoisseurs. On the one hand we'd never seen these rooms exactly as they'd appeared to their owners. On the other hand, the consensus is these pieces were never the same and would never again command the value at auction they once did. It seems that centuries of dust and smoke are something that, once removed, just can't be put back. Now whether you agree with the experts or not, you have both a useable object and an investment to consider here. At the end of the day, we are - at least for the present time - caught up in a spell. The spell is broken when all the oil from all the fingers and all the dust from all the rooms that settled on the piece on all those historic dates is scrubbed away. Those spellbound folks might be tapping into genius or they might be nuts, but one things for sure, it's the fellow under a spell is the one most likely to dig deepest to pay for this stuff. And anyway, leaving these rare old bench-made beauties untouched at least risks doing no harm that can't be undone and at best gives us a more genuine and direct connection to the past in all those blackened layers, and their evidence of generations of human use. These elements could be clarity or integrity of finish, or a structural, decorative or mechanical element. Additionally, the intention of restoration is that the state of beauty or functionality returned to should be as much like its original state as possible. It is bronze, and had a beautiful green/black patina. The age “patina” is often what people want and look for (yes, the “dirt”). If it’s a tag-sale piece that has little collector value, go on and sand it and varnish or paint it, but be sure it’s not valuable before you do do. What are the best sites to buy antique furniture?

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Did you scroll all this way to get facts about restored furniture ?

The most common restored furniture material is wood. The top corner of the cabinet is coming up a little as you can see in photo. And front of drawers have some surface rust. But all drawers open and slide very well. Overall is good condition and a very neat cabinet!

The silvering on the mirror does show its age, but it still reflects very nicely. The back and the shelves of the unit are made of steel, and the walls and door are made of wood. The red tape that you see in the pictures holds the screws that held it in the wall. The latch still holds the door closed snugly and the hinges are tight. It has been painted more than once, and some of the paint is flaking. Also, there are two small adhesive squares stuck to the side.

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Please see the pictures for a complete description, and thank you for your consideration. Otherwise, this is a sturdy, functional piece with well aligned drawers.

We stand by all that we offer and are proud of the quality of service we provide. In addition, we guarantee that by the time our work for you is complete, you will be nothing less than completely satisfied. Our mission is to bring your furniture back to its original beauty.

We do our best to preserve heritage and promote recycling by making memories for you and your family. If you need your couch, cabinets, tables or other furniture to look like new, don’t hesitate to call. Whether you need your table refinished or dining chairs reupholstered, we’re here to help. All you need to do is give us a call and we’ll take care of the rest. In the meantime, feel free to take a look around our site to learn more about what we can offer you. If you have any questions or concerns, please don’t hesitate to at any time.

He was very thorough and detailed oriented. He spent quality time, and took pride in his craftsmanship restoring our door. They even built me a custom floating desktop. Restoration can be as simple as light cleaning to remove disfiguring dirt or grime, such as on the surface of a painting, or it may include near complete rebuilding or replacement, as might be the case with old automobiles or furniture. There is a lot of difference between restoring and repairing. Functionality may be achieved by a repair, but restoring an item properly is an art-form.

Finishes might/may be stripped and redone, but it is essential that the original patination is retained, if possible. Stripping is only done as a last resort, especially with antique furniture. Engines might be rebuilt with new parts as necessary, or holes in a silver pot might/may be patched. Poor restoration is the bane of a trained restorer. Working on someone else's bad repair is the worst possible situation. Often with antique restoration, there are also other issues as well. For example, some collectors value "patina", or also want an item to still reflect an aesthetic that shows its age- in this respect, an "over restored" item can actually take away from its value than if nothing has been done to the item at all. Therefore, restoration of valuable objects should always be left to professionals who are sensitive to all of the issues, ensuring that a piece retains or increases its value after restoration. Original artwork can sustain all sorts of damage over its lifetime. French polish finish, which is impractical for mass furniture production due to the labor-intensive process of application. As the desire for antiques was not idle, neither was the need for them to be appropriately restored; thus, the trade has been kept alive by a thread. This involves re-emulsifying the original finish, either shellac or varnish. By using the original solvents to liquefy the solids, their ability to adhere to and penetrate the piece returns.

If the finish is very thin, additional layers of the same finish may be applied to bolster the restored finish and ensure longevity. Finish restoration results in an original finish rating: for example, 85% of the original finish remains. The more original finish that remains, the more antique value remains. Damage and finish deterioration are left intact, but prevented from going further. This process is usually done on museum works; we recommend a conservation or restoration process for home use of antiques. In most cases this is a chemical process that prevents further oxidation of the wood and metals, and in addition adds moister to the existing finish. May involve addition of new materials altered to appear aged or the application of antique materials to improve appearance of repair and preserve as much value as possible. As the number of people increases and the number of trees and other natural products in the world decreases, wood and other materials becomes more scarce. So the fact that the material was not worth doing a good job with when an item was made does not mean that the material should be discarded along with the object now. What's under the surface may be a quality piece of furniture that will make a fine addition to your own home or which can be a welcome source of extra cash. Often, the difference between junk store dust catcher and collector's item is just one simple step: refinishing. A perfect high-gloss finish, for instance, is difficult to apply and a waste of effort. The same goes for the majority of "grain fillers" and sealers. Ditto for oil finishes, which are fragile. Forget all that and let me tell you about my favorite method of how to restore old wooden furniture. The more thoroughly its quality is concealed, the more valuable the piece will be when you're done. Many smaller items, and almost anything that is lightly finished, will be bid out of sight. An old shed is fine as long as you don't care about the floor. You'll be using a lot of semi-paste stripper and a little of the liquid type.

How to Restore Antique Furniture out decreasing value

Also steer clear of homemade brews, which work but are often more dangerous than commercial caustics and may be harmful to wood. Keep in mind that any paint remover is mean stuff. The varnishes you buy should be high-gloss polyurethane or epoxy only, since they're the most durable and easiest to use. You'll certainly regret any flirtations with cheap dime-store finish or "varnish stain". Ask the man at the paint store (and be sure it is a paint — not a dime or hardware — store, if you have a choice of dealers). Hand cream, to be applied before you put your gloves on and after you wash up. If you skip this precaution, your skin will keep you awake at night. One large, flat, and dull metal scraper (like a pancake turner or spatula), and many smaller homemade wooden ones. A goo bucket to catch all the mess, even if you don't care about the floor of your work area. A small wooden brush with fine stiff bristles (for use with wet stripper). A toothbrush (to clean dry surfaces only). Also a lintless cloth, if you can find one, for the application of varnish. White glue is easy to use, but almost any kind will work. Forget hide glue, though, and be wary of high-solvent adhesives which can stain or mar a finish. Don't buy anything expensive unless you're sure you want to go in that deep. All the way through every job, work gently (lovingly, if you can). If its joints and screws are solid, that's fine. Old glue, etc., can then be cleaned out, and the parts left separated until the refinishing is complete. Sometimes "black paint" turns out to be only water stain, and you're home free. Use as little pressure as possible, rather than trying to force off the softened gunk. The stripper is the real tool, the scrapers only extensions of your hands. Stripper left on too long becomes gummy, and most of it should be removed between stints of paint scraping. Details can be cleaned with liquid stripper. To avoid streaks, keep the liquid stripper off large, flat surfaces: let it run only into other detailed areas. Allow the article you're working on to dry for a day or more. If it is, either lighten the dark areas with liquid stripper on a rag or treat the light spots with a few drops of stain applied in the same way.

Apply coloring lightly, wait a few minutes, and rub it down with a rag. Don't ever try to get a deep stain in one coat, or the result will look like bad paint. Let the finished job dry a day before you varnish it. Pros go over furniture with a vacuum cleaner and "tack rag" immediately before varnishing. Then swab on the finish with a lintless rag. Make haste slowly, work the coating in well (it's going to be its own sealer) and be sure that no excess is left on corners and edges. Let the piece dry thoroughly, dust it again, and apply another layer (less varnish will be needed this time). The result will be a beautiful low-sheen protective coating, very hard and waterproof, which looks and feels like an expensive oil finish. Reassemble the piece if necessary, with only enough glue to do the job (excess white glue can be wiped off with a damp rag). Unless the item is small, advertise it by itself or only with similar pieces. Show it in your living room or other attractive setting. Actually it's hard to lose money on good wood, nicely finished, any way you handle the transaction.

Restored furniture

The demand for any quality wooden item is currently good and constantly getting better. This means, of course, that there’s a real premium on the accuracy, dependability and usefulness of the information we provide. And they usually don’t make the point that anything repaired and or refinished was probably in pretty poor shape to begin with. The unfortunate result is that more and more people are afraid to have their dilapidated furniture touched.

We do have many people on the show – probably the majority – who have no intention of selling their pieces, and they are routinely encouraged to enjoy and use their antiques. On occasion, we also go into some detail on issues of restoration and conservation. Most old furniture, of course, doesn’t come close to meeting those standards. How could such furniture not be improved by a good job of refinishing or restoring?

To be sure, this is just one instance held up against many others on the show that glorify an original finish, and it’s true that we don’t include very much “ordinary” furniture. The question of what to do when a piece isn’t quite perfect arises just about everywhere we go. Leigh asked the table’s owner whether or not she was disposed to fix the top. The inside of the locking top is also felt covered. All the felt is new and is installed to match the original, including the glue.

I removed the old, dark finish to reveal the glorious grain beneath. The lock has been untested due to the fact that we do not have a key. The exterior size is 18" wide by 10 1/2" deep by 10 1/2" high. The eight drawers have hand cut dovetails and feature a small, brass knob pull. This is an unusual set of drawers that could be used in a wide variety of ways, don’t miss out!

The table has a lyre pedestal on raised splayed legs with fluted detail in the middle. The drop leaves are spring loaded and will stay in place when in use.

A steel body, wrapped in extra thick oak slats, complete with heavy duty rivets and steel hardware is what held these trunks together. Striped to bare wood re stained and hand rubbed in a premium protective tung oil varnish. This has hand forged hardware and the original lock. The loop handles are held in place by the original holders. They can be painted, stained, sealed, or used as is. The whole cabinet was sanded down and restrained. Cabinet has all original pulls that were cleaned up.

Piece is in age appropriate, very sturdy condition. The table now looks the perfect balance of polished and distressed.

I had five pine antique pieces that were in terrible shape.

I e-mailed some pictures of the piece as he requested and he soon responded with an estimate of the time required to repair and refinish a very battered table. He stuck to his original estimate, but told me that if the job took less time he would charge accordingly.

I was especially impressed by his knowledge of wood types and methods of repair and also by the way he handled the old furniture with real gentleness and respect!

Best Antique Furniture Restoration in Pasadena CA

His price was about half that of an estimate we got from another company. He did a wonderful job, was very professional and provided great customer service. Thank you for your help in solving our furniture problem.

I have been in the construction business for 20 years and have been restoring antiques for five years.

I lost my job five years ago and started doing my own thing. The cushions were completely torn, the wood was scratched, and the springs were broken to the point where when you sat on the chair, you practically sat all the way down to the floor!

Ely came to our apartment to give us a free estimate. He provided us with a selection of fabrics and also a recommendation of a fabric store in our location. He came back to pick up the chair as well as the fabric (3 trips to our apartment by this point). The fabric looks perfect, the springs are springy, and even the wood has been de-scuffed.

We repair it all: wood, leather, granite, cabinets (new or old) and baby cribs.

We do not strip and refinish unless it is part of a complete restoration.

We specialize in coming to you and doing work on site. If the work is extensive, we bring the piece back to our shop.

Bloomington Furniture Refinishing 812 333 0779

The workmanship in the finished product was excellent. A very damaged and unsightly dresser was beautifully restored-- better than new!

We had the painted top stripped down and then restained. When you have an old piece of antique furniture that has been passed down from generation to generation, you want someone who is skilled and pays great attention to detail to restore it to its original state.

I can do that for you on all of your antiques and mid-century items. My restoration services include staining, restoration, re-gluing, touch-ups and more. Our technicians and staff must meet with the highest levels of standards.

We will be working on-site and on your schedule with guaranteed workmanship.

We use latest technologies and products to service your furniture needs. Our methods and products are chosen to make our repairs permanent and invisible and to return your furniture to its original or even better condition. Our technicians are experienced and well trained.

We also repair and restore scratched and/or dented hardwood floors, doors, elevator wood, and stainless steel panels.